iTech120 Lithium battery

[Geedublya]

Has anyone got an iTech120? The specs look good and it has in-built battery management so it should be ok hooked up to the Traxide SC-80.

Don't bother telling me I should just get a lead acid as I understand the differences. I want the light weight and the increased capacity.

[drivesafe]

Hi Geedublya, unfortunately, you can not use a Lithium battery with a VSR isolator, mine or any other brand.

VSR isolators will not turn off because of the higher constant voltage of a lithium, and even if you keep the batteries connected, you will only be draw current from the lithium battery until it is down to around 20% SoC. Only ten will you be drawing off the cranking battery.

The only way to set up to use a lithium battery as an auxiliary battery is to disconnect the batteries when the motor is turned off.

In other words, an ignition switched type isolator.

Because you can not use the cranking battery while camping, a 120Ah Lithium battery only gives you a very small increase in capacity, and the weight saving is not much better either.

[Geedublya]

Thanks Tim, it still may be useful as a house battery in the caravan and then I could put the 150AH AGM from the caravan into the car,

[austastar]

Hi,
Interesting that it claims to be "drop in". So did my Fusion 200 AH. But the charging profiles on the tech sheets, if I am reading them correctly, would indicate that a lead acid charging profile is not ideal.
I am still using an SC80 Traxide isolator, but it feeds a dc2dc / MPPT solar charger. This saved me a bit of wiring, and is backward compatible if I ever go back,
Is there a noticible difference between the lead vs lithium?
Well I cobbled the wiring together for a trip last weekend.
Charged the battery to float on a mains lithium charger and left.
Camped for 2 nights (fridge, lights, diesel heater) and the voltage barely moved.
Coming home, the battery was back to float after about 30 minutes driving.
No way would I see that with the old battery.
Cheers

[John_D4]

Hi Geedublya, unfortunately, you can not use a Lithium battery with a VSR isolator, mine or any other brand.

VSR isolators will not turn off because of the higher constant voltage of a lithium, and even if you keep the batteries connected, you will only be draw current from the lithium battery until it is down to around 20% SoC. Only ten will you be drawing off the cranking battery.

The only way to set up to use a lithium battery as an auxiliary battery is to disconnect the batteries when the motor is turned off.

In other words, an ignition switched type isolator.

Because you can not use the cranking battery while camping, a 120Ah Lithium battery only gives you a very small increase in capacity, and the weight saving is not much better either.

Same deal using the USI160 controller?

[drivesafe]

Same deal using the USI160 controller?

Unfortunately, yes.

The only way to charge and maintain lithium batteries properly, is by using a DC/DC device.

I have been helping people setup caravans with lithium house batteries for nearly 7 years now.

While I originally set up a good friends D4, as an experiment, with one of my isolators. The setup was quickly converted to a DC/DC charging system, using Sterling gear.

I still help customers set up with the same Sterling gear, and these same setups are idea for Lead Crystal house batteries as well.

[John_D4]

Bummer. Thanks

[Eevo]

The only way to charge and maintain lithium batteries properly, is by using a DC/DC device.

help me out if, if an alternator puts out 14.6 volts
and a lithum battery charges at 14.6 volts, why is a DC/DC charger needed?

[drivesafe]

Hi Eevo, 14.6v is the absolute maximum charge voltage most lithium batteries can safely tolerate.

Once a lithium battery reaches a fully charged state, the voltage should be lowered to no more than 13.8v, 13.6v is preferable.

[austastar]

Hi,
there is a bit of info here.

Lithium Vs Lead Acid >> Marsen

Cheers