Stuff to do to the new landy

[Stepho_62]

G'day All

I'm about to embark on an upgrade for my newly aquired 110 Cab/Chassis.

I'm looking for tried n true tips for the little 2.5L Turbo 4. With this in mind can someone give me a few suggestions re the following. Things like make, supplier, availability etc. I live in Tassie and of course u pay for everything + freight so I'm trying to make my $ go as far as I can.

So here is the list;

Snorkle
Air Filter
Exhaust & Muffler. I'm planning 2.5 inch with straight thru muff in SS
Exhaust Gas temp gauge. ?VDO
Dual Battery, can anyone point me to setup tips?
Bash plates specially round the engine?
Rims & Tyres Its currently got std rims with BFG Mudders = very noisy
Whats with the maxi axles????


Thats about it for the time being. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Regards, Stevo_62

[CraigE]

Try Alan at Jagspares maybe now known as British4WD, not sure. I actually found it cheaper at times to get second hand parts from him in Tassie to WA than anywhere else.
Use standard air filters, oiled units are not so good for turbos.
2.5" exhaust is a good option.
EGT gauge not really needed unless you are going to up the boost.
Dual batteries are easy and there are a multitude of setups with the cheapest just being a smart solenoid. Get hold of Traxide a regular contributor on this site for his products.
Bash plates are nice but not essential unless you plan hard core 4x4 and could be easily fabricated if you have the right tools.
BFG muddies are a great tyre, buy a set of road tyres for road work if the noise bothers you and change to the muddies for offroad trips.
Maxi drives are a nice to have but once again only needed if you are going to get into hardcore 4x4.
A must is a basic recovery kit (snatch strap etc).

[langy]

NOTE :It appears that Mr CraigE and I were typing at the same time - great minds think alike !
Howdy - even though I have a disco, it's the same engine - the Tdi needs a little attention to stay a decent motor:
Clean the intercooler with a good degreaser,
New manifold gasket ($20), and watch for broken bolts (ordinary M8 HT )
HD hose clips for the turbo pipes - available at bearing suppliers - much better than the jubilee clips supplied.
Regular use injector cleaner
Be religious about oil/water/filter changes - it helps performance.

As to your wish list:

Snorkle - good idea

Exhaust - unknown.

EGT - only if you fool with the injector pump ( Other threads and 'net topics cover this in great detail)

Dual battery - depending on accessories? Space available? Varies from one big battery, to two with charge controller ( See emporium re traxide controller)

Bash plates - depends on use - if you go rockhopping expect to bend trackrod (behind diff) or dent diff cover. Various threads re various protection devices available.

Look at www.troutbecksales.com
located Ballarat, Vic - will give you an idea of design and price. ( Shipping isn't too pricey apparantly)

Tyres: Again, depends on use. If you want quieter - any good AT tyre will be better - keep the muddies for playtime?

Maxi axles - again, depends on use. If you 4wd like a demon and launch yourself like a rocket, you might want em - others have better ideas than me on that topic.

Have fun
Langy

[CraigE]

I agree with Langy, the single most important item with a tdi is regular servicing. Change the oil and filter every 5,000kms. Oil and filters for tdi's are cheap. Suitable oil for tdis's in 20litres can be bought for about $70-80 and filters are about $10.
Make sure all other oils are changed at least every 12 month or 40,000kms or after extreme or water use.
Coolant every 2 years minimum with the best you can buy.

[crump]

Here is a pic of some of Troutbecks gear.

[Stepho_62]

Crump, Nice Pics.

My wife and I had a cruise around today for the 1st time since getting the new Truck home. She even drove and pretty damn well to I might add.

So tomorrow it goes to the spray painters so we can pull the flat tray off, Sand Blast it and respray. I had a good look this arvo and the metal on the tray looks pretty thin from some severe corrosion so I've got my fingers crossed.

Tell me, should the gearbox be realy tight??? I have trouble getting it out of reverse sometimes

I'll keep adding to this thread as a I start spending cash.

[DeeJay]

I just did a compartment for dual battery and if you have a grinder and welder it is a DYI.

http://landie.bigblog.com.au/gallery.do'type=detail&id=36029
Cheers,
David

[JDNSW]

Crump, Nice Pics.

(snip)

Tell me, should the gearbox be realy tight??? I have trouble getting it out of reverse sometimes

(snip)

Not really, although this might depend on what you are used to. Suspect a dragging clutch (master or slave cylinder or both) or more likely the type of oil in the gearbox. Been a lot of discussion on this forum about this in the past (try a search), and the recommendations from the factory have varied over time. Which oil you should be using depends on what model and gearbox we are talking about - it definitely should be a thin oil, either engine oil or ATF. I ended up using synthetic engine oil in mine to overcome this problem (except it was first gear and only when very cold).

John

[Stepho_62]

Not really, although this might depend on what you are used to. Suspect a dragging clutch (master or slave cylinder or both) or more likely the type of oil in the gearbox. Been a lot of discussion on this forum about this in the past (try a search), and the recommendations from the factory have varied over time. Which oil you should be using depends on what model and gearbox we are talking about - it definitely should be a thin oil, either engine oil or ATF. I ended up using synthetic engine oil in mine to overcome this problem (except it was first gear and only when very cold).

John

Thanks John, I suspected the clutch myself but I've checked the point of friction in the forward gears and its still quite some way out from the floor so if the clutch is in then the trasnmission appears to be disconnecting adequately. I'm going to take the vehicle to a LR specialist soon and have ALL the fluids changed so I'll tell him what its doing.

I took the tray of today to get sprayed and I cam home late tonight and pressure washed it with a mate holding a 500w flood light for me. I'll get up at dawn and wire brush any bad bits, rust convert them and paint them with a ormaniod or tar compound paint before I put the tray back on again. I also ordered a full set of LED taillighting for it today including a 33 LED 100mm round reversing light.

I'm getting there, its gonna be slo but its started

[landy_man]

I'm going to take the vehicle to a LR specialist soon and have ALL the fluids changed so I'll tell him what its doing.

ARE YOU SERIOUS....
Mate.. your owners manual shows you exactly where to fill and drain all the oils in your vehicle.. it requires no special tools and you will learn where all the bits for toppping the oil up are located... Save the $$ you will spend on labour for other things like snorkel, winch etc.. Every Landy owner should be able to at least do their own oil changes..