Hotwire

[mfc]

Im having issues with not starting /timing, being sans helper I need to start/turn over from the engine bay ....what’s the safest way to do it before I ham fist it and cook something ...regards mark
Ps had the car running enough to fine tune ,then moved it 15 meters, it stalled and won’t restart.....been starting first second or so of button push for a week n a half
At the moment I’d swap it for a later series

[mfc]

Have a strong 2 inch spark from coil hit to block and continuity tested all 4 leads { was weak spark but had a dodgy coil]..plugs clean and gapped but had weak spark...hence starting from engine bay
Only other thing to look into is a fuel restriction....the engine will kick but just not start
Cheers mark

[LR1953]

Mark, before you suspect fuel, make sure everything is correct in the dizzy. Maybe replace the "condenser" (capacitor). Make sure there aren't any shorts or loose connections in the low voltage circuit.Voltage should be 12 with the points open (no current flow), zero when they close. Check with a test lamp or voltmeter. I assume the battery is in good condition and ignition timing (set statically) is correct. You might try retarding the spark as much as possible on the advance/retard control and hand cranking (this avoids the risk of the engine back-firing and busting your wrist with the crank-handle). It sounds like you've replaced the coil; is the polarity correct with respect to the rest of the electrical system? These vehicles had positive earth systems which means current from the ignition switch goes to the negative terminal of the coil and the positive terminal connects to the dizzy.
Trust some of the above helps before you start to test fuel pump issues, fuel contamination issues, carby jet issues etc.
Cheers, Rob S

[mfc]

Mark, before you suspect fuel, make sure everything is correct in the dizzy. Maybe replace the "condenser" (capacitor). Make sure there aren't any shorts or loose connections in the low voltage circuit.Voltage should be 12 with the points open (no current flow), zero when they close. Check with a test lamp or voltmeter. I assume the battery is in good condition and ignition timing (set statically) is correct. You might try retarding the spark as much as possible on the advance/retard control and hand cranking (this avoids the risk of the engine back-firing and busting your wrist with the crank-handle). It sounds like you've replaced the coil; is the polarity correct with respect to the rest of the electrical system? These vehicles had positive earth systems which means current from the ignition switch goes to the negative terminal of the coil and the positive terminal connects to the dizzy.
Trust some of the above helps before you start to test fuel pump issues, fuel contamination issues, carby jet issues etc.
Cheers, Rob S

I suspect many issues lol..there is/was a fuel issue , old old fuel[replaced] crud that partially blocked carb.....now working on the electrical side, one dead lead and a dodgy cap, have replaced coil with another ...
Now back to start after cleaning out carb adjusting idle mix to two turns out from bottom, I suspect that the slow idle screw needs a twist as it’s cutting out[when I can get it going] before I can get out of the cab.......and as you mentioned re coil, I have substituted a tested coil but I
NEED to check the polarity.........there just frustrating as hell till you get them to run , then you can usually sort them out to run smothly [as smooth as they do that is...ps rodgered a starter thismorning ...grrrr so no spare left, it still spins but defiantly sounds unhealthy
Regards mark