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Thread: D4 SDV6 Service Intervals

  1. #1
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    D4 SDV6 Service Intervals

    I have a 2016 D4 Landmark that currently has 57,000kms. Has been a great vehicle since new and hasn't missed a beat. For the warranty period I had it serviced at ULR in Melbourne who did a good job, maybe a little expensive but overall great service. At the last service in October 2019 (3yrs and 54,000km) I had it serviced at Ritter in Melbourne, who also did a good job, they replaced the rear pads and carried out the log book service.

    Next service should have been due at 70,000km or October 2020 so I was surprised to get a letter from Ritter (and windscreen sticker) recommending a service at half this interval. I called them to discuss and there response is that "Land rover stretches intervals to lower running costs" and that by servicing more often they can extend life of items such as brake pads etc.

    What is the consensus on the forum?

    Vehicle does not do any towing and only occasionally off-road, most driving is normal suburban or highway. My thought is to stick to the manufacturer recommendation?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by factory View Post
    I have a 2016 D4 Landmark that currently has 57,000kms. Has been a great vehicle since new and hasn't missed a beat. For the warranty period I had it serviced at ULR in Melbourne who did a good job, maybe a little expensive but overall great service. At the last service in October 2019 (3yrs and 54,000km) I had it serviced at Ritter in Melbourne, who also did a good job, they replaced the rear pads and carried out the log book service.

    Next service should have been due at 70,000km or October 2020 so I was surprised to get a letter from Ritter (and windscreen sticker) recommending a service at half this interval. I called them to discuss and there response is that "Land rover stretches intervals to lower running costs" and that by servicing more often they can extend life of items such as brake pads etc.

    What is the consensus on the forum?

    Vehicle does not do any towing and only occasionally off-road, most driving is normal suburban or highway. My thought is to stick to the manufacturer recommendation?

    Let the avalanche commence!
    10K and 9 months for this puppy, and before Tombie gets a chance to comment - city driving is arduous driving.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  3. #3
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    Most of us silly old farts on here will recommend six monthly or 10k to 14k intervals for engine oil and filter changes. Particularly if doing a lot of short trips. It also means you get the opportunity to have a good look over the car (or your mechanic does). I'd also recommend you check the service history as I would like to see that, by now, your diffs and transfer case oils would have been changed, along with brake fluid. ULR servicing is historically excellent and Ritters have a good reputation so I'd certainly discuss it all with them.
    The general consensus here is:
    Engine oil and filter every six months or around 12k. (Some do 10k and others 14k and they won't get any argument from me).
    Transfer case oil 40k.
    Diffs 40k.
    Auto transmission service (use A&B in Dandenong $770). A&B suggest this can be up to 130k if no towing and no serious 4WD'ing. I settled for 90k as my use is mainly long drives and some serious 4WD'ing and only a little towing. According to A&B I could have easily left it for another 20-30k as all was well and the oil clean. My advice would be to do it around 80-90k and even half of that if regularly towing.
    Brake fluid flush every couple of years or 40k.
    Fuel filter 24k or more often if filling from jerry cans etc.
    Coolant 5 years.
    Electronic Park Brake should really be checked every service and cleaned and adjusted every year or so. Never use the drive off feature. How hard is it to push a switch?
    To help your battery, disable the nonsensical "follow me home" feature where the headlights remain on after you switch the engine off so you can find your way in the dark. If it's that difficult, fit a sensor light at home! And don't use the auto headlight function as if you start up in the dark the headlights come on before the engine starts. Dumb. There's already a massive drain on the battery when you turn the motor on and before the alternator and battery management system can get its act together and start charging the battery, so disabling anything that adds unnecessary load is a good idea. I also disable the interior lights from automatically coming on when a door opens.
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  4. #4
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    I do the "inbetween" service myself of changing oil and filter. This is done at the 12K mark after the Independent has done the service when the dash lights up. The dash light up has NEVER been 12 months or 26K from when the Indi has reset the service counter on the computer. I have been told the cars computer determines how hard the car has worked between its service resets and adjusts the KMS or months for the nominal 26K/12 months accordingly. The most I have had between Indi services has been 23500Kms and a low of 19275kms, with my service being done at around 12K. As others say if you have a little understanding of car mechanics, doing the interval oil change gives you a chance to look more closely at the car especially what lurks under the engine covers and what has been hidden by the bash plates. My car has done nearly 80K of which 2/3rds towing a 2.4t van and 4wding. This Indy service I am getting the diffs, transfer and gearbox oils replaced as a precaution and on advice from the Indy saying they should be done. Tranny is being done at A & B. I do my own brake pads as I carry spare pads and wear leads. This seems to be necessary because when towing the rear brakes seem to wear very quickly despite the van having electric brakes.
    2016.5 TDV6 Graphite D4,Corris Grey,APT sliders,Goe air comp plate,UHF & HF radio,Airflow snorkel,Discrete Winch,Compo rims with 265/65/18 Wildpeak AT3W, LLAMs,Traxide dual battery,EAS emergency kit,Mitch Hitch EGR blank & delete,ECU remap

  5. #5
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    I have my MY14 D4 serviced every 13,000km, which is around every 4 months for the kms I do. Next one will be in a couple of weeks at 184,000km.
    Chris

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjc_td5 View Post
    I have my MY14 D4 serviced every 13,000km, which is around every 4 months for the kms I do. Next one will be in a couple of weeks at 184,000km.
    Chris
    That's interesting, Chris. I presume you are due for the 7 year/182,000 belt change if you haven't already done it. Are you planning on any preventative parts replacements? I'm thinking low and high pressure fuel pumps etc.
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselLSE View Post
    That's interesting, Chris. I presume you are due for the 7 year/182,000 belt change if you haven't already done it. Are you planning on any preventative parts replacements? I'm thinking low and high pressure fuel pumps etc.
    162,000 I thought? Chucking a new HP fuel pump is a massive call and the LP is in the fuel tank.

    Definitely the plastic coolant fitting and a new water pump while you have it apart.

    A new accessory belt and accessory belt tightener also as they seem to go sooner or later.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    162,000 I thought? Chucking a new HP fuel pump is a massive call and the LP is in the fuel tank.

    Definitely the plastic coolant fitting and a new water pump while you have it apart.

    A new accessory belt and accessory belt tightener also as they seem to go sooner or later.
    Renew camshaft drive belt, tensioner and idle pully, and; Renew fuel pump drivebelt and tensioner is on my 182,000km/84 months service schedule.
    If you're taking the body off, you may as well do as much as possible I reckon. From what I've read on here, either the low pressure or high pressure fuel pumps start to play up about this mileage, but I share your concern about where do you stop!
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselLSE View Post
    That's interesting, Chris. I presume you are due for the 7 year/182,000 belt change if you haven't already done it. Are you planning on any preventative parts replacements? I'm thinking low and high pressure fuel pumps etc.
    Haven't confirmed it is the belt change yet but I think it is. The dealer has mentioned that they MAY do the belt "body on"? I haven't researched what else to do yet... The inlet manifold was replaced 9 months ago.

  10. #10
    josh.huber Guest
    You can do both belts with the body on, I've done then on a 3l . Can't comment on 2.7

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