Reducing Quiescent Load with Traxide System

[DieselLSE]

I could just email Tim, but may as well share with youse all.
If you refer to the attached schematic, you'll see I have a number of power outlets and a NIMH and Li-ion charging "station" downstream of the Traxide ABG-2 low voltage cutout module. All these little LED's must draw some power when not needed, particularly these days when the poor D4 sits idle for weeks at a time. So, I decided to fit a kill switch on the earth circuit upstream of the ABG-25.
Probably should have read the Install instructions first! I see that the ABG-25 has a few smarts built in including a delayed shutdown to overcome load spikes when the fridge motor starts. It also does a start up check after power is supplied by the kill switch for about 12 or so seconds before allowing power to flow downstream.
So, my questions for Tim (and debate by others are):
1. Can I simply leave loads connected to the ABG-25 and merrily use the kill switch as a master switch, or should I remove all loads before switching the master on and off?
2. As I have the ABG-25 tucked away from view so I can't see it's LED, is it possible to wire in an LED which I can place next to the master switch? Not sure I want to do this, but just asking.

[LRD414]

My system is similar to yours except with an SC80 isolator. My "kill switch" is a plug I installed into the SC80 earth wire, so well upstream of the ABG-25. Everything still works fine with downstream connected components when I plug and unplug.

Cheers,
Scott

[DieselLSE]

My system is similar to yours except with an SC80 isolator. My "kill switch" is a plug I installed into the SC80 earth wire, so well upstream of the ABG-25. Everything still works fine with downstream connected components when I plug and unplug.

Cheers,
Scott

Thanks Scott. Good idea. But I'm installing solar panels which I want to continuously charge both batteries, so I need to keep the system all connected up. Also, I have a dashcam running off the second battery (upstream of the ABG-25) which I want to be continuously powered.

[Tombie]

Thanks Scott. Good idea. But I'm installing solar panels which I want to continuously charge both batteries, so I need to keep the system all connected up. Also, I have a dashcam running off the second battery (upstream of the ABG-25) which I want to be continuously powered.

I have a dash cam fitted to my main battery, on 24/7 and the vehicle goes up to 2 weeks without driving and never a problem.

With the solar you won’t have a problem - those LEDs etc will barely make a dent on it. USB ports can be hungry though. Mine all have power switches.

[DiscoMick]

I have 80 watts of solar connected to the starting battery up stream of the SC80, a Polaris GPS/dashcam and Tekonsha electric brake unit and USB plugs. Downstream of the SC80 are an AGM battery and 30 litre fridge. I have never had a problem or needed a kill switch.

[drivesafe]

Hi dieselLSE, the ABG-25 would draw less that 3Ah from your batteries, before it Timed-Out.


So it is not a big issue.


But some device, like battery monitors, with LED displays, can draw up to as much as an amp.


These would be best turned off when not in use.


My recommendation would be to fit your switch down stream ( after ) the ABG-25.


SPECIAL NOTE, while in your specific diagram, having the kill switch in the NEGATIVE wire is not an issue as this would turn off the ABG-25, which would remove the POSITIVE supply, but in normal setups, for maximum safety, always switch the POSITIVE wire or switch both wires.
Never switch the NEGATIVE wire while leaving the POSITIVE wire live.


This can easily result in a short occurring when you least expect it.