Do I need a Hard Reset?

[gavinwibrow]

After last weeks debacle losing all electrics when I tried to insert my GAPTool at the lights for instrument mode, and being ignominiously towed home, I have since recharged the main battery which was at 4.8V.
I can now "electrically" open the car doors using the key, but when I go to start the engine, I get the key not recognised warning (tried on all 3, at least 2 of which have reasonably new batteries and were working last week).

I suspect/vaguely recall that a hard reset might be required?

If so, my only trouble is the that terminals each have a tristar (tightening?) screw on top, which I currently can't loosen.

Maybe call the RAC?



I also contacted GAP re the original problem, and will post the response as a different thread.

[theelms66]

If your battery was at 4.8v ,I don't think it will ever be of use.

[Eric SDV6SE]

After last weeks debacle losing all electrics when I tried to insert my GAPTool at the lights for instrument mode, and being ignominiously towed home, I have since recharged the main battery which was at 4.8V.
I can now "electrically" open the car doors using the key, but when I go to start the engine, I get the key not recognised warning (tried on all 3, at least 2 of which have reasonably new batteries and were working last week).

I suspect/vaguely recall that a hard reset might be required?

If so, my only trouble is the that terminals each have a tristar (tightening?) screw on top, which I currently can't loosen.

Maybe call the RAC?



I also contacted GAP re the original problem, and will post the response as a different thread.

Gav, new car battery me thinks, at 4.8v that’s buggered. Also replace the battery in the key fob with brand new. Re Tristar, do you mean torx security screws? Terminal should be std M10 bolts or so.

[Tombie]

What terminals? Factory battery terminals?
The “star” is the threaded rod, you loosen the nut on the top and then wiggle the clamp off.

[gavinwibrow]

What terminals? Factory battery terminals?
The “star” is the threaded rod, you loosen the nut on the top and then wiggle the clamp off.

Tried to loosen the nut holding the thread, but stopped when I thought it would break

[gavinwibrow]

Gav, new car battery me thinks, at 4.8v that’s buggered. Also replace the battery in the key fob with brand new. Re Tristar, do you mean torx security screws? Terminal should be std M10 bolts or so.

Battery is HD Varta 12 months old. Have just spent 2 days recharging it to 12.something volts, so hopeful it can be rectified, if only for a lesser period.

[gavinwibrow]

If your battery was at 4.8v ,I don't think it will ever be of use.

Eternal optimist - see reply to other post from Eric

[josh.huber]

Was the car towed to your house or elsewhere. What condition was it towed in? Was the gap tool still plugged in when it was towed.. How many days since the failure till you seen it at 4.8 volts? Any fridges etc.
With a can bus failure, if the failure is at the obd port maybe the cat never went to sleep trying to come back to life and simply drained the battery. Unfortunately in my experience it'll need a new battery anyway. I'd order it now to make the diagnosis cleaner for dazza,

[josh.huber]

Also do you have dual battery's? If so disconnect them. When my yellow top went. It killed my main battery aswell.

[NavyDiver]

Just replace a failed battery in my other half's car. A faulty cell. I had it on charge over the weekend and quickly noted it took far to long to charge. Battery test cost me nothing. your battery is still in warranty like mine was. Get it tested is my tip before anything else.