As long as it is within the specifications in the owners handbook you’re all good.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...78e588f76c.jpg
Hi Brains-trust
I have the standard landrover towbar receiver (with the keyed lock) on my D4. I've never had any problems with it, towing my camper over many rough roads.
I've just bought a new tongue (standard Hayman Reese tongue), rated to 3.5T. When I went to put it in, it's too long and hits the spare tyre under the car.
No problems there - I'll just cut the extra length off the back, so it clears the spare.
My query is around the hole location for the pin to secure the tongue - when it's in place (pin holes lined up) there is about 1-2cm of extra length protruding out the back of the car, towards the towball (ie distance between the tow ball and the pin hole through the tongue is 1-2cm longer).
In my mind, this means the ball is 1-2cm further back, and therefore there is greater load (moment) on the towbar receiver and the car overall.
Question - is this 'extra load' a problem? Or is the distance (1-2cm) going to be negligible?
Maybe I'm being paranoid, but want to make sure I don't break anything or end up stuck somewhere!
Thanks.
Rob
D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.
As long as it is within the specifications in the owners handbook you’re all good.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...78e588f76c.jpg
2014, MY14 Discovery TDV6, Fuji White (2018-Now)
2003, Discovery 2a, Td5 Manual, Zambezi Silver (2012-2018)
2007, Adventure Offroad Campers, Grand Tourer (2015-Now)
I seem to recall reading somewhere that you can't modify a tow tongue from original spec - no cutting, no grinding, no nothing.
Happy to be proven wrong, and I don't remember where I saw it, but as I remember, it came from what appeared to be a reputable source, and it was when I was sorting out the towing setup for my number 5 army trailer on my D3.
2012 L320 Range Rover Sport Fuji White
REMLR 012
No 5 Trailer ARN 177-295
2006 Disco 3, 4L V6 Petrol SE Deceased Feb 26 2023
SOLD Engineers Trailer - no id
SOLD RAAF 231194 Perentie 110 GS - SIR ANGUS
SOLD 4MP COY Series 3 FFR 30-209
There must be a bit of lee-way. The tray my 130 extends far enough that the Hayman Reece tow-bar ends with the ball under the tray. I can cope with it, but I asked H/R if it could be extended. Their answer was that it could be done but only an extra 200mm as any further would technically overload the back axle. Think you're probably safe.
Give them a ring, one of their engineers will answer your question.
Don.
Are there any aftermarket tongues with 152mm drawbar length? ARK do a 160mm but I can't locate a shorter one. Do I need to go original?
2011 SDV6 3.0L + Torus Kakadu, Winchbar, UHF, roof racks, 1 wife, 4 dogs, not enough fishing rods, and Wallabies supporter.
Well, that's really interestng. The original drawbar is 162mm in length (pin hole to ball centre), as per the max. dimensions specified.
So anything longer is non-compliant.
My standard, 3.5T rated Hayman Reese drawbar that i just bought is ~215mm from pin hole to ball centre - well outside the max allowable!!!
Basically the only option is the original LR drawbar (unless there's another 'short' drawbar available out there)!
Begs the next question - can I drill a new hole for the pin in my H-R drawbar?
I'm assuming 'NO', as there's likely a minimum distance that would be needed between the 2 holes (existing + new) to ensure the new hole doesn't weaken the drawbar...
So, I have to buy another LR drawbar, me thinks!!!!
D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.
In Victoria we have these creatures known a VASS engineers, basically automotive engineers accredited with VicRoads to authorise modifications such as GVM upgrades etc. I assume that WA has a similar system. Given the legal ramifications I would do nothing without consulting one.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Surely it all depends on the weight being added..
I have a super long draw bar that I use just for the bike rack. Helps it clear the tail gate.. the longer the bar the more weight on the rear axle.. But if your talking a 1t trailer with 100kg ball weight. The extra length shouldn't cause concern aslong as it doesn't allow the trailer to over load the axle.. if you were close to the 250 kg mark and started making it longer then more thinking is required.
That spec says "recommended" I read it as if you go over this you'll need to re-check your ball weights effect on the car.
And no. Don't drill holes in it.
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