my drawers

[shamirj]

1. so one drawer made up then had to be cut back. my sliders were 800mm long, but the carcass is 900mm long and would not allow me to lift the drawer to angle into its carcass. so some time wasted but sorted in the end.

2. test fit in the boot of the D4, can lift on my own with the one drawer in it as well

3. here with the felt glued into position bottom and sides

4. and here is the gap for my... to be made socket for the spare wheel, hopefully have made enough room in the front to access with drawer in place. do not want to remove the drawer to access.

[shamirj]

1. trying out this arrangement for securing to the floor - needed the D shackle is the smaller open end does not fit over the latch in cargo area

2. window locks i have used in the past so will use again, don't really need security key but will keep in drawers

3. couldn't use the original holes to screw into carcass because the middle timber is only 20mm thick and cant screw from either side in same location, so one needed to be offset hence new holes drilled

4. screw and light required to secure into position, thank god the holes i cut out were to save weight but also assists in drilling from the outside to the centre by putting my hand through the holes

5. base and side on

6. 2nd drawer almost complete, has felt inner just needs capping off the front and then the face of the drawer... time for a rest now

[shamirj]

1. so figured a solution for the locks mounted at the base of the front drawers - just needs a bracket to secure to base and then a hole for the lock - again not looking for security but to stop drawers opening when driving off

2. took off the cover for the spare wheel nut except this one is not a nut so thinking cap on to find a solution

3. with potentially both seats down this is the amount of room you have to play with, with regard to a socket

4. this 4 piece contraption seems to work well and finishes flush with the carpet when seats folded flat

5. I had a longer extension but stuck out to far, this shorter version works well.

next to drill a hole in the socket to put a bolt/nut through to secure to spare wheel aperture. never drilled through a socket before so lets see what or if it happens...

[gavinwibrow]

next to drill a hole in the socket to put a bolt/nut through to secure to spare wheel aperture. never drilled through a socket before so lets see what or if it happens...

Did that yesterday with a similarly looking (aged?) socket. One edge/side of the socket was a piece of cake and the other side was like stainless steel - but got there in the end.

Your 3rd row seats are much further apart than mine. I can't even fit the tiny 1/4" extension bar through between them and will either have to take off the plastic trim, or access the system with one side of the back emptied so I can lift one seat out partially of the way- which kind of defeats the purpose of it all. Suspect the plastic trim will take a walk!!

[shamirj]

1. couldn't find a centre punch anywhere, so made this contraption to hold the socket against my trailer so that i could begin drilling

2. unable to start drilling resorted to using the angle grinder to cut a + to assist with the start of drilling which helped a lot

3. finally drilled one hole, just kept changing drill bits from diff sizes till success

4. both drills working overtime to get this hole cut - bit of a nightmare to do

5. this was not the final bolt and nut but you get the idea

6. with the short extension on and drawers into position (not using position)

7. with the longer attachment extension (when using to lower or raise spare wheel)

I know a lot of manufactures of drawers have you remove the drawer to access the spare wheel nut, but i kinda think what about if your in the rain and dark at night, try removing a heavy loaded drawer then put it on the ground just to access the spare, not for me thanks

[shamirj]

1. cardboard cut out of the driver side - face. i did have a few goes till i got this right

2. made up with left over timber, then painted black on the exposed edges, then carpeted into position

3. top piece was much harder to do, again a few attempts with left over wood, got the desired result and shape

4. into position but just sitting - trying to figure out a way i can quickly and easily attach firmly and then remove if needed without screwing together. top piece will prob be cut in half to make removal and refit easier then a one long piece

[shamirj]

1. As i have said, I always wanted something easy to pull apart for what ever reason and came up with this idea. Looking down the right side front face with two small L brackets to hold into position no screws needed

2. same panel rear view with two L brackets which seem to work well and doesn't move on drives (both L and R panels done this way)

3. left side front done as well

4. finally got to the top piece, drilled small finger hole to help remove and refit as needed, carpet glued all round, sits pretty well without a middle support arm yet, so hard to find a collapsible L bracket even at bunnings ! L bracket needs to collapse so that the drawers can come out of the vehicle.

One problem is the plywood I used on this top panel had a bow in it, which i did not notice so will need some heavy weight added on top to make it sit flush, has a slight bow upwards. easy to sort that out. I also cut the top piece in two again to make it easier to remove and refit then one long piece. pretty happy with the results so far.

[shamirj]

1. driver side top completed, just missing the middle supports which when i can source suitable L brakets will use but sits nicely

2. another view, both tops have finger holes to help secure into position or to remove, again nothing is screwed into position for ease of removal

3. another view looking back towards the rear of the vehicle. end carpet not cut yet or completed in case i need to modify - have another modification in mind yet.

just need to complete the process for the pass side now for the tops to be complete.

[shamirj]

1. cut out the third top panel out of 4 panels needed here on both sides, though this is the pass side now. small finger hole cut out as well. would like to find something plastic and flat to fit over the hole for a nicer finish in black but cannot find anything at home yet...

2. glued both surfaces (both timber and carpet), easy to map out or draw along the edge of where the timber sits so I know exactly where to glue to. allow to dry then press together.

3. in position again without the supporting arm or L bracket. worked out the length of the L bracket needed but need to find something suitable that will work in that area.

overall happy with the progress, just one rear top panel left (pass side) to do and then the two side front (or is that the back) panels to do up against the middle row seats.

[shamirj]

1. found these L wooden brackets, and did have a screw slot in the rear for easy removal but the screw had to be so small did not fit for purpose, so screwed them on, with small additional L brackets. just need to tilt the base to remove and refit, can still do on my own so base prob weighs up to 15kgs

2. final top panel completed for now, I now have a flat bed so to speak. nice and level with the bottom tailgate as i wanted. no plans for fridges.

3. ample storage at the front, have my additional jack for now till i sort out the lock mechanism. allows me to put smaller items here in quick reach.

4. might leave this rear open and just add some L brackets for support but allows quick access and the rear seat when upright will stop anything falling out. ample storage on the sides as well.