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Thread: Changing Defender 90 Rear tailgate bolts to stainless.

  1. #1
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    Changing Defender 90 Rear tailgate bolts to stainless.

    Hi all,

    I'm changing the door bolts to stainless on a MY12 Defender 90 as they are starting to rust and have done the front door, all good. Wondering if the nuts on the inside of the tailgate rear barn door are spot welded so I can just change out or do I need to remove the interior liner below the small rear windows to access the locknuts? Access is difficult as I have a built-in window box..

    Cheers,
    GlennA

  2. #2
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    Changing Defender 90 Rear tailgate bolts to stainless.

    No such luck sorry.

    The top hinge can be accessed by moving the panel out a little.

    I’d say you’d be able to do the same with the lower ones.

    Don’t forget to coat the stainless where it could contact the alloy or you’ll get corrosion quickly.

  3. #3
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    Just to add what Tombie has said.

    When using stainless bolts and stainless nut, use nickel anti-seize on the threads or they will suffer galling (cold welding for the want of a better explanation).
    Also dont use copper anti-seize on stainless.
    Regards
    Daz


  4. #4
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    Didn't know this, why not use copper grease?
    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    Just to add what Tombie has said.

    When using stainless bolts and stainless nut, use nickel anti-seize on the threads or they will suffer galling (cold welding for the want of a better explanation).
    Also dont use copper anti-seize on stainless.
    Cheers
    Niels

    Snowy - 1998 300tdi Defender 110

    Past:
    The Toad - 1992 200Tdi Defender 110

  5. #5
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    Changing Defender 90 Rear tailgate bolts to stainless.

    Quote Originally Posted by Plutei View Post
    Didn't know this, why not use copper grease?
    It reacts! Strongly. Dissimilar metals.

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