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Thread: Low Battery Warning

  1. #1
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    Low Battery Warning

    Mahn England

    DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)

    Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html

    Ex 300Tdi Disco:



  2. #2
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    Very Interesting, planning on doing a open door test on the 90 tomorrow to see if it starts

  3. #3
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    Does not effect me as I do not have one of these newer Defenders but it was an interesting watch. He made some good points at the end regarding EV and Hybrid cars and not wasting unnecessary battery power. Highlight of the video was the quick view of the Discovery parked in front of the Defender.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Summiitt View Post
    Very Interesting, planning on doing a open door test on the 90 tomorrow to see if it starts
    It does concern me due to our mode of camping. Doors are opened and closed or just left open at random. On the odd occasion where we stay put for more than two nights, this could be a problem.
    Mahn England

    DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)

    Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html

    Ex 300Tdi Disco:



  5. #5
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    Thanks One_Iota, that is a great video.


    Hi Folks and this is just a suggestion for a theoretical fix for the high current draw occurring in these new Defenders.


    I have already supplied a number of my isolators for use in some new Defenders but I have not created a kit, just yet.

    Using my isolators and an AGM auxiliary battery dramatically reduces the problem BUT does not fix it.

    I have also seen quite a lot about the problems being caused by the static discharge that occurs in the new Defenders and had feedback from a couple of customers who have had battery problems when the new Defender is not driven every day or so.

    This shows that opening the doors is only part of the problem and just sitting unused for around a week can lead to a flat battery.

    To be fair, how much the vehicle was used prior to the week of not being used is just as important.

    After carrying out tests with a lithium auxiliary battery in my Tiguan, I am pretty confident I could near fix that battery draw and extend the cranking battery lifespan to near indefinite.

    Again, this is a theoretical fix and would need testing, but.

    You could fit say a 100Ah Lithium battery ( it will fit ) and because of the SMART alternator operation in the new Defender, you will need to have a DC/DC device charging the lithium battery while driving.


    Nothing new so far.


    The difference is once the motor is off, and the DC/DC device is off, connect the lithium battery back to the cranking battery.

    You can not just use a switch or relay for this job as you will still need to protect the lithium battery against over discharging and causing the lithium battery’s BMS to shut down the battery as you would then need to manually energies the lithium battery’s BMS or the DC/DC device will not charge it once the motor is running again.

    So you would need a Low Voltage Cut-Out device and this would also need to disconnect the two batteries the instant the ignition is turned on ( for a number of reasons ).

    This setup would mean the lithium battery was carrying all the static discharge current when ever the motor was off, and could do so for many weeks, if not for a month or so.

    It would also guaranty that the cranking battery would be maintained in a fully charged state at all times while the motor was off.

    This would occur because the cranking battery has a rested voltage of 12.7 - 12.8v but a lithium battery has a rested voltage of 13.2v minimum, over 80% of its discharge cycle.

    So the lithium battery would supply all the power for the static discharge currents while at the same time, continuously trickle charging the AGM cranking battery.

    NOTE based on all the testing I have already carried out, this trickle charge current would only be 100 to 200 milliamps.


    Anyway, this is just a suggested fix.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post


    .......Anyway, this is just a suggested fix.
    Seems to be a good idea to use a lithium auxiliary to power the "house" power needs when not generating power.

    I look forward to seeing your kit should you choose to develop one.
    Mahn England

    DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)

    Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html

    Ex 300Tdi Disco:



  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by one_iota View Post
    I look forward to seeing your kit should you choose to develop one.
    I have been kicking the idea around for a while, after someone bought their new defender to me to look at the potential of producing a kit for them.

    But as I posted, my kits would dramatically reduce the problem, they would not eliminate it and so the reason for looking for an alternative, but it is an expensive alternative.

    NOTE, the lithium auxiliary battery could still be used as conventional auxiliary battery but it would double up as a maintainer for the cranking battery at the same time, with the right electronics.

  8. #8
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    So Land Rover really hasn’t improved since the Discovery. It’s no better for wasting power if you open and close doors all the time, waking up the modules.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    So Land Rover really hasn’t improved since the Discovery. It’s no better for wasting power if you open and close doors all the time, waking up the modules.
    Actually, I think it is worse now than it was and gets worse with each new model.

    Remember, these are no long Land Rovers as we knew them.

    They are now so urbanised that they have just about lost the plot.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    So Land Rover really hasn’t improved since the Discovery. It’s no better for wasting power if you open and close doors all the time, waking up the modules.
    Yes a well documented issue with D3/4.

    The D4 timed out after around 3 minutes,from memory,not a ridiculous 10 minutes.

    So,when camping, we used to leave one door open,or just have it on the first click,which could probably be done with the Defender?
    The internal lights went out after 20 minutes.I took out the puddle light and footwell light bulbs as well,as we didnt have any need for them.
    And for those that have a RTT,it also stopped the vehicle from continually relevelling,which not only stopped battery drain,but also stopped the vehicle ending up on the bump stops after a couple of days.It seemed the moving of weight around in the RTT caused the vehicle to continually want to re levell,i bet the Defender is no different.

    Anyway,good to see Tim is onto it,but it is an expensive band aid,its really a vehicle issue that needs to be rectified by the manufacturer.
    For a touring vehicle, definitely not ideal.

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