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Thread: Engine oil separator

  1. #1
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    Engine oil separator

    Can anyone explain to me what the function of the Oil Separator (p/n LR054999) is? (apart from the obvious of "separating" the oil, ha, ha!)
    Apparently it's at the rear of the engine on a 3.0 litre V6 diesel, (and a 2.7??)

    I see they are advertised with most LR/RR Parts Suppliers and I am wondering if its a "suggested" replacement part?
    Cost is around $70 depending where purchased.

    I intend doing my inlet manifolds and oil filter housing at the same time soon, and am interested if this separator should be replaced whilst in that area.
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

  2. #2
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    Engine oil separator

    Quote Originally Posted by Discodicky View Post
    Can anyone explain to me what the function of the Oil Separator (p/n LR054999) is? (apart from the obvious of "separating" the oil, ha, ha!)
    Apparently it's at the rear of the engine on a 3.0 litre V6 diesel, (and a 2.7??)

    I see they are advertised with most LR/RR Parts Suppliers and I am wondering if its a "suggested" replacement part?
    Cost is around $70 depending where purchased.

    I intend doing my inlet manifolds and oil filter housing at the same time soon, and am interested if this separator should be replaced whilst in that area.
    It does what it says. Crankcase vapour is separated into air and oil. The oil drains back into the sump and the cleaned vapour is burnt in the intake stream during combustion. They generally break when being removed so it might pay to have another in the parts bin.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  3. #3
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    But there’s nothing in it really and you give it a clean out with brake cleaner. The seals it docks into in the block are worth replacing. A real puzzle to get it out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    But there’s nothing in it really and you give it a clean out with brake cleaner. The seals it docks into in the block are worth replacing. A real puzzle to get it out.
    Correct. It’s just a plastic matrix designed to make the air turn hard corners and drop the oil onto the walls and into the sump. Mine has broken retaining clips after removal, but still seems to be holding in place
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  5. #5
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    I cleaned mine out with shellite. Didn't even know it had clips holding it in. On the 2.7 mine has either broken clips or none at all. It's purely the friction on the bottom seals that hold it in place.

    For a good primer on removal, check out Shanes oil cooler replacement video. He's got the trick pretty well documented. It's actually really easy once you know how to do it. My problem is by the time it needs doing again I've forgotten the trick I figured out last time.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    It does what it says. Crankcase vapour is separated into air and oil. The oil drains back into the sump and the cleaned vapour is burnt in the intake stream during combustion. They generally break when being removed so it might pay to have another in the parts bin.
    So it is basically an oil catch can but more sophisticated as it returns the oil to the crankcase.
    I had heard the engine had such a thing and now know where/what it is.
    Thanks.
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

  7. #7
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Pretty much. They've been on most engines since the 70's.
    Generally a catch can goes between the oil sep and the intake to try and wring out a bit more oil.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    I cleaned mine out with shellite. Didn't even know it had clips holding it in. On the 2.7 mine has either broken clips or none at all. It's purely the friction on the bottom seals that hold it in place.

    For a good primer on removal, check out Shanes oil cooler replacement video. He's got the trick pretty well documented. It's actually really easy once you know how to do it. My problem is by the time it needs doing again I've forgotten the trick I figured out last time.
    There’s a change between EU3 and EU4 on the fuel pump makes getting It out a little trickier on the latter. LR Time has the method for EU4.

    The sense of relief and pride when you finally get it out is up their with birth of first child.

  9. #9
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    I have the EU4. For me the key was removing the return line from the clip in the passenger side of the valley. That allows it to be rolled that way and it "just" slides out.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    I have the EU4. For me the key was removing the return line from the clip in the passenger side of the valley. That allows it to be rolled that way and it "just" slides out.
    Not to mention the fear as you pray every quick connection you undo doesn’t snap.

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