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Thread: Intake Manifold: Pre empt or risk it

  1. #1
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    Intake Manifold: Pre empt or risk it

    Just read Planefixers intake manifold story…

    So the plastic parts eventually give way. It’s a roulette wheel as to when? But presumably age and kms start to make it more likely.

    To those that have been inconvenienced by this…would you recommend a preemptive replacement at a certain Kms / age?

    Doing long trips / remote travel…I’d rather stump up for a known cost under my terms than in the middle of a trip…

    My SDV6 is on 120k and 6 years young now…so contemplating these things for the future

    Cheers

  2. #2
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    Had wondered the same thing about my 2013 200k. Watching with interest
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  3. #3
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    I have a 2010 3L D4 my drivers side one went at 10 years 200000klm I had both replaced at the same time. With 3 of us doing it (one idiot me) and two real diesel fitters it took 8 hours.

  4. #4
    josh.huber Guest
    Short answer is yes, with genuine manifolds. Mine went at 230 odd thousand, but it's my daily. So maybe worse for me then on a holiday.. It will be a when, not if, that's up to you, I liked doing them under no stress over a couple nights with a hire car to get to work, all our situations are different.

    Plus because they went at home I did them. Didn't have to pay the labour.

  5. #5
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    My 2013 has just clocked 173,000 and I will get them both done prior to my next mainland 2 month c/van trip booked for next June. I'll replace the oil cooler/filter assy at same time.
    I'm a firm believer of preventative m/ance and have already replaced the gearchange rotator, alternator and battery before they gave trouble. Alternator and battery done last month. Battery was just over 4 yrs so 'due'.

    Don't wish to contemplate the hassles of trying to get a quick repair whilst on holidays somewhere!

    I was tempted to use non genuine, however upon further investigation it appears that the cost saving is simply not worthwhile in this case.
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimmAus View Post
    Doing long trips / remote travel…I’d rather stump up for a known cost under my terms than in the middle of a trip…
    I would just get them done.

    Some on here that have had them fail on trips have been badly inconvenienced.

    Finding a good LR Indie that can do work on these vehicles,and reasonably quickly, is difficult at the best of times,yet alone while out travelling.

    As others have said,I also do the same with batteries,done 4 years and travelling,change it.

    Ditto for tyres,change before complete worn out,particularly if touring.In the last 20yrs of touring,i have never changed a tyre on the side of the road.I have always run high load rated tyres as well.Might be a few more $ and not handle as well as a lower rated tyre,but i dont want the incovenience failures.
    I read on here quite often of some having two or three tyre failures on the one trip.
    I just hope Murphy isn't listening.

  7. #7
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    I say to my customers...

    *It may or may not ever happen.
    *If one side fails, just do it, there is no cost saving doing them both at the same time due to the way its done.
    *If I did the drivers side, it maybe 50, 80 100K later that the other side goes if at all.
    Regards
    Daz


  8. #8
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    My D4 MY13 SDV6 HSE had the RH side go at about 180,000 km and the LH side go at just over 200,000 km. It is probably worth getting both sides done together so you never have to worry again. A pox on JLR.

  9. #9
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    +1 with Dazza, except in my view, do them both, do them properly and sleep easy.

    My passenger side went at 200,000km got both done that same week at my indie. No stress.

  10. #10
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    +1 for doing them both

    No savings perhaps, but its a total pain in the ass when you lose the car unexpectedly, need to book in to repair, wait on parts, etc etc. And thats assuming it dies on a school run, and not halfway up the canning stock route!
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio

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