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Thread: Slower to start

  1. #1
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    Slower to start

    I've noticed the car taking a few extra cranks to start up lately. No codes to explain, and only happens when 'cold' (though not very cold, where it would need glowplugs etc)

    We had an issue a few months back where we ran the car completely out of diesel (electrical issue, where the fuel gauge halved its range, where full = full, but empty showed half). So, now i'm worried there may be a drama with the fuel pump? Just guessing though.

    Has anyone else had this?
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio

  2. #2
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    When my crank position sensor started to fail, it would randomly crank a little longer. Then eventually it wouldn’t start sometimes. Then it eventually stopped while I was driving.

    How old is your battery. When it’s colder it works harder to crank it, and you might find the voltage is dropping too low for a short period, extending crank time.

    Slower to start
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    When my crank position sensor started to fail, it would randomly crank a little longer. Then eventually it wouldn’t start sometimes. Then it eventually stopped while I was driving.

    How old is your battery. When it’s colder it works harder to crank it, and you might find the voltage is dropping too low for a short period, extending crank time.

    Slower to start
    Hmm, yes, the CPS may explain it too... Battery is close to new, and I haven't replaced the failed traxide unit, so the main and aux are permanently linked. Very powerful crank speeds!
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio

  4. #4
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    I also thought my battery was dying due to excessive cranking to start, but my mechanic found the fitting to the HP fuel pump was leaking and managed to tighten it up. The cranking was due to losing prime and threw no fault codes even though my mechanic thought it would, which is why at first, I rushed out and bought a new Optima yellow top battery which is my under bonnet back up in case the main fails, as the Optima had been hovering between yellow and red on my charge indicator.
    2005 D3 TDV6 Present
    1999 D2 TD5 Gone

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by RANDLOVER View Post
    I also thought my battery was dying due to excessive cranking to start, but my mechanic found the fitting to the HP fuel pump was leaking and managed to tighten it up. The cranking was due to losing prime and threw no fault codes even though my mechanic thought it would, which is why at first, I rushed out and bought a new Optima yellow top battery which is my under bonnet back up in case the main fails, as the Optima had been hovering between yellow and red on my charge indicator.
    That’s pretty random. Presumably you’d had the HPFP done at some point prior.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    That’s pretty random. Presumably you’d had the HPFP done at some point prior.
    Yes, had leaking HPFP seal/s replaced.
    2005 D3 TDV6 Present
    1999 D2 TD5 Gone

  7. #7
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    Does anyone know if the HPFP get touched during body off, and/or exhaust manifold stud replacement work?
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio

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