Aluminium Radiators Suck!

[Baytown]

Well, it’s happened yet again, my flash aluminium radiator fitted to my 2012 110 has a leak, top right corner of the core. The radiator was manufactured by ‘Aussie Desert Coolers in Melbourne and was fitted as part of my 6.2 LS3 built. Actually it started leaking almost two years ago so I’m lucky if I got a year out of it, and I’ve just been topping it up with coolant as needed.

I didn’t let the manufacturer or installer know as being in Southern Tassie makes sorting these issues out with Melbourne based business difficult. This is in no way a comment against my installer as their service was beyond reproach.

I called a Hobart based radiator repair shop and they weren’t interested. There’s no way I’ll be fitting another Aussie Desert Cooler product, and the last three quality produced alloy radiators from PCR and AlliSport have not lasted two years without failing.

As such, with recognition that I’m running a 6.2 litre engine, I wonder if there are any ‘steel’ radiators manufactured for other large vehicles that would fit into the Defender engine bay and suitable for my heavy cooling needs?

Thanks for any info-advice re this recurrent issue, and there’s no way I could be the only person who has had such poor performance from ‘Alloy radiators’.

Ken
IMG_1773.jpgIMG_1771.jpg

[Graeme]

As the leak is adjacent to the mount, I wonder if the vibration insulation is too rigid. A larger diameter soft rubber bush might be required.

[Baytown]

Hi Graham;
‘Yes, I believe this may be the issue as each of my previous alloy radiators failed probably due to too rigid a mount (this advice via my mechanic who removed the failed radiators.
As far as I can tell (only due to comment by the Hobart based radiator place) was that they can’t be repaired. I have no idea as easy to find and eager radiator places are rare from my Port Arthur location, hence my enquiring about suitable HD steel framed radiators that can support the 6.2 LS3.👍

As the leak is adjacent to the mount, I wonder if the vibration insulation is too rigid. A larger diameter soft rubber bush might be required.

[Blknight.aus]

Hi Graham;
‘Yes, I believe this may be the issue as each of my previous alloy radiators failed probably due to too rigid a mount (this advice via my mechanic who removed the failed radiators.
As far as I can tell (only due to comment by the Hobart based radiator place) was that they can’t be repaired. I have no idea as easy to find and eager radiator places are rare from my Port Arthur location, hence my enquiring about suitable HD steel framed radiators that can support the 6.2 LS3.👍

you may need to get a double isolated radiator setup if you're going to stay with aluminimum. The aluminium radiator is mounted into a frame on soft blocks the frame is then mounted with more rigid blocks and there are are support struts for the hoses and fans/shrouds.

The killer is vibration or torquing of the core tubes. IME the cores are not made at most radiator places but ordered to size and then have the tanks put on. The tubing is generally too light to weld and even cleaning them up often damages them beyond repair.

All that said...

I have in the past jagged a fix using the ally "welding" rods

Flux cored aluminum welding rod make repair radiator easily - YouTube

theres a quick demo (not by me) on a radiator

Tips For Welding Aluminum - YouTube

BOL.

[Oberon 110]

Years ago a bloke who builds/tinkers lots of aussie muscle and weird us imports (50's - 70's) told me alloy radiators are garbage - only any good in sport applications where they're swapped out every hundred hours or so at most. I though that alloy was less thermally conductive than steel so not sure what the advantage is other than cost and weight. I suppose that's not much help, other than to say that maybe a steel rad is the go. Hope you find a solution that lasts

[Blknight.aus]

Years ago a bloke who builds/tinkers lots of aussie muscle and weird us imports (50's - 70's) told me alloy radiators are garbage - only any good in sport applications where they're swapped out every hundred hours or so at most. I though that alloy was less thermally conductive than steel so not sure what the advantage is other than cost and weight. I suppose that's not much help, other than to say that maybe a steel rad is the go. Hope you find a solution that lasts

aluminium conducts heat about as well as copper but is lighter, it conducts heat better than steel but doesnt retain it as well and deforms more than either copper or steel..

its also very prone to fatigue failures.

[Tombie]

Well, it’s happened yet again, my flash aluminium radiator fitted to my 2012 110 has a leak, top right corner of the core. The radiator was manufactured by ‘Aussie Desert Coolers in Melbourne and was fitted as part of my 6.2 LS3 built. Actually it started leaking almost two years ago so I’m lucky if I got a year out of it, and I’ve just been topping it up with coolant as needed.

I didn’t let the manufacturer or installer know as being in Southern Tassie makes sorting these issues out with Melbourne based business difficult. This is in no way a comment against my installer as their service was beyond reproach.

I called a Hobart based radiator repair shop and they weren’t interested. There’s no way I’ll be fitting another Aussie Desert Cooler product, and the last three quality produced alloy radiators from PCR and AlliSport have not lasted two years without failing.

As such, with recognition that I’m running a 6.2 litre engine, I wonder if there are any ‘steel’ radiators manufactured for other large vehicles that would fit into the Defender engine bay and suitable for my heavy cooling needs?

Thanks for any info-advice re this recurrent issue, and there’s no way I could be the only person who has had such poor performance from ‘Alloy radiators’.

Ken
IMG_1773.jpgIMG_1771.jpg

Mount needs alterations. That’s FAR too rigid.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

What Mike says.. make box ends so the rad just sits in there

[Baytown]

Thanks for the great reply Dave.
I’ll mention this to my mechanic and see what they think, or if they can recommend a place in Tassie to look at the radiator, and perhaps review the fix as you’ve suggested. I’ll post back here with what solution we take on.👍

you may need to get a double isolated radiator setup if you're going to stay with aluminimum. The aluminium radiator is mounted into a frame on soft blocks the frame is then mounted with more rigid blocks and there are are support struts for the hoses and fans/shrouds.

The killer is vibration or torquing of the core tubes. IME the cores are not made at most radiator places but ordered to size and then have the tanks put on. The tubing is generally too light to weld and even cleaning them up often damages them beyond repair.

All that said...

I have in the past jagged a fix using the ally "welding" rods

Flux cored aluminum welding rod make repair radiator easily - YouTube

theres a quick demo (not by me) on a radiator

Tips For Welding Aluminum - YouTube

BOL.

[Baytown]

Actually I can see what you mean Mike, as the failure is beside the upper right mount. I’ll see what options are available to me re repair or replace once I can find someone who will take on the repair and mod.
‘Good on you.👍

Mount needs alterations. That’s FAR too rigid.