D3 Diesel Prospect Inspection Tips from D3 Petrol Owner

[theh33d]

Good Morning Brains Trust

I plan in having a look at a D3 diesel here in Perth tomorrow and I just wanted to know what I should look out for, in regards to identifying any oil leaks with big repair costs.
I'm familiar with most things D3 related as I have owned my D3 petrol for the past 6+ years and love the car but thinking of switching over to a diesel for better towing/torque and fuel economy.
The D3 in question has low KM's (100,000) and also has the fruit I would want on a Discovery for when I venture further out in the bush (bull bar, winch, RAI) and is basically identical to my current car which is a bonus as I do like the look of my car.

D3 in question:
carsales.com.au

If anyone knows this car and any issues with the car, then if you could let me know then that would be lovely.

[loanrangie]

Check it has had the belts and oil pump replaced as it should be on its 3rd set by now. It looks like a reasonable buy at the higher end of the market but has about 3k or so in the bar and snorkel.
Shouldn't have any leaks but then seal age and fail, got some peace of mind from a dealer at least, trans should be really tight still but will require a fluid/filter change.

[PerthDisco]

Wow that’s a rare low km one!!!

It might even be a EU3 diesel TDV6 version not that that makes any difference and those hpfp’s seem to be less prone to long term failure.

If so, you can also blank off the EGRs simply with plates. Then clean all the muck out of the intake.

Up to MY07 there are quite a few cooling and fuel system differences when choosing parts.

#1 as loanrangie said straight away you must must must work out if the oil pump is still original as it will fail at the tensioner and destroy the engine and is the perfect job to upgrade to latest and significantly better pump model while doing timing belts.

At same time renew plastic coolant crossover and you’ve dealt with both engine killers.

At same time replace water pump and all the accessory belt pulleys and belt.

Change every fluid and go to 5W-40 on the engine.

In short- get it to Dazza at Aztec who will quickly ID and set you straight on those two major risks.

Regardless of kms at that age you have to think about all the hoses and plastic connections as a risk on the engine.

The alternators do die due to age and kms (around 7 years or 150kms) and take out the battery and leave you stranded so it’s another dead easy replacement with the oil pump and timing belt for peace of mind.

I’d allow around $5-6k parts and labour on these critical items if you can’t DIY.

Even if the timing belts were replaced last week if the job was done without replacing the original oil pump it could fall apart a month after you bought it more likely than if it’s still on the original belts. Once you touch that original tensioner bolt the clock is ticking.