Ball Ends and Drag Link Rod

[BaggyDog]

Hi All,
I'm doing a refurb on a 63 LWB and currently having a fight trying to get the ball ends off. The rubbers are all split (many years ago by the looks) and the ball ends are pretty much seized.

I'm having a real issue trying to get the old ones off. I've undone the clamps and given them a good soak in penetrating oil but so far no luck, is there a trick to getting them to move?
Alternatively does anyone know where to get a replacement rod? It's the one between the steering box and steering relay in case I've got the wrong name for it.
Done a bit of a search but can't find anything particularly useful.


Many thanks

[p38arover]

By ball ends I assume you mean tie-rod ends? Don’t forget, one will have a left hand thread.

If you have access to a gas flame, try heating the threaded sections. That will often break any rust holding the parts together.

[BaggyDog]

Unfortunately I can't see enough thread to tell which is left or right handed so I've had a go both ways but it won't budge at all.
I've tried some heat but it's only a propane torch so doesn't get real hot. Might give it another go though.
Thanks

[JDNSW]

The answer is to heat the rod and avoid heating the tie rod end as far as possible. You don't need anything hotter than a propane flame or electric heat gun - you don't want to affect the heat treatment of the steel. Add penetrating oil while hot (but not near the flame). Leave for 24 hours and repeat as often as necessary. Two or three goes should be all that's needed.

All these rods, from steering box to relay, from there to the LH steering arm, and the track rod, are LH thread at one end and RH at the other.

Note: In getting parts, Series Landrovers used two types of tie rod ends and they are not interchangeable (except together with the rod).

The earlier type, fitted to Series 1,2,2a, does not have the thread the full length of the tie rod end that screws into the tube. There is an unthreaded section about 2cm long, with a corresponding section on the tube, where the clamp is fitted.

Later ones, Series 3 (and 90/110) are threaded all the way and the clamp is on the threaded section.

The tie rod end and the tube must match as the clamp is not reliable clamping thread on an unthreaded section (either way).

While your 2a will have originally had the earlier type, the tube plus tie rod ends from a Series 3 will work and may have been fitted in the past. No problems, as long as the tube and tierod end types are not mixed. You really don't want it to unscrew while driving, it will spoil your day.

Modern replacement tie rod ends may have a different thread and type of nut on the taper bit into the arm, with a self locking nut rather than a split pin - this is not an issue.

[BaggyDog]

Thanks for the advice, I'll hit it with heat a couple of times and see if that gets a result.
Cheers

[Tins]

The answer is to heat the rod and avoid heating the tie rod end as far as possible. You don't need anything hotter than a propane flame or electric heat gun - you don't want to affect the heat treatment of the steel. Add penetrating oil while hot (but not near the flame). Leave for 24 hours and repeat as often as necessary. Two or three goes should be all that's needed.

A candle works well.. Not as a heat source, obviously, but proper candle wax will melt and penetrate rust better than many high priced products. IKEA is a good source of proper wax candles, but so are some hardware outlets. 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone works too, but candles are cheap to have around, and are handy when the power is out as well.

As John says, it will take a little time and patience.

[BaggyDog]

Thanks for the tips, after a few heat cycles and plenty of WD40 they came off pretty well. Time to clean up the bars while I wait for the new ends to turn up. They did have the unthreaded shoulder so I presume they are probably original.
Cheers

[Blknight.aus]

if your rod has no holes in it for the dampner mount, after you put the first tie rod in and initially clamp it down, part fill the rod with a heavy gear oil before you put the other side in.. Also, lots and lots of antisieze before you put the rod ends in.