likely head problem

[ninchi]

From FB, I acquired this beauty today. I got it cheap and now I think I know why.

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Just now I saw a warning on facebook from a few weeks ago that this one was known to have a head issue. Oops.

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There were no indicators of water when I test drove, no white smoke or milky residue. I drove it home with the engine running for about an hour under stop start city traffic and me watching the temps and lamps like a hawk, and it drove beautifully (for a Defender).

On seeing the facebook warning I popped the bonnet and checked again for residue, and this time I found some in the filler cap.

I'm ok with repairs (though I've never done a head before) and I'm happy to give it a crack. I'm not, however, a trained mechanic. I don't have equipment for a leakdown test either. So advice: get her flatbedded to a landy place to have her seen to, or give it a shot?

[JDNSW]

I'm afraid that the answer depends entirely on your ability and willingness to learn! And that is a bit hard to tell from here.

The Td5 engine is long lasting and robust - but while not prone to overheating, if overheated it will almost certainly damage the head, very likely requiring replacement (not that I am an expert on this engine). There is always the possibility that more major work than just the head may be required.

In the end it is up to you.

[TonyC]

So the anonymous Facebook user never got the see the car, but has diagnosed it with a blown head and a sump full of water!

What does the oil look like?
Is it at the correct level, or over full?

I'd start with draining the oil into a very clean container and have a good look at it.

TD5s do crack heads and can then leak diesel into the sump, leading to over full oil.

The standard temp gauge is "normalised" this means it won't move off normal until it vey hot, some say so hot it's to late.
A Nanocom diagnostic tool will let you a watch the actual temp. Their not cheap, but if you're keeping the car, it's a tool you'll need.

There a lots of people on here that are very knowledgeable about this motor.

All the best with it.

Tony

[ninchi]

Thanks both.

I am willing to learn and I bought this as a project, so basically unless it needs very specialist and expensive tools, I'm happy to do it. I will get a Nanocom as I've heard too many people say it's essential.

The oil looks clean, slightly overfull. Nothing like the chocolate milk I've seen in videos. This is after driving it home in city traffic for an hour yesterday. There was a slight bit of gunk under the filler cap when I got it home - I wiped it away without thinking before I could get a pic. The water overflow tank was also empty once cooled down. I've refilled this.

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No white smoke though there is a weird whistle coming from somewhere near the back while running. Didn't get a chance to track that down yet as I don't want to start her up until I'm more confident about this possible oil/coolant problem.

I have the roadworthy guy coming tomorrow so I'll drain the sump after he's been and see what we see. I guess that will answer the doubt raised by Anonymous

I have heard the oil cooler can corrode through on TD5s and cause water in the oil as well.

On another topic, I believe this is a breather filter to prevent dust ingestion to the oil during deceleration? There's a fair bit of red dust in the car so I imagine that might be the reason for the install. The filter looks caked and there seems to be a solid plug of material in the inlet.

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[ninchi]

Almost forgot - it also has an Engine Watchdog which didn't show over 85 on the drive home.

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[TonyC]

The engine watchdog should give you an accurate temp reading, 85 is certainly in the ball park, I don't know what the thermostat temp is for a TD5.
Does the engine watchdog do low coolant as well?

The dip stick and oil cap photos look OK to me.

The loss of coolant is a concern.

No idea what that filter setup is about, is it a remote oil filter? If so I can't see any reason for the little filter in the top. Where do the hoses go?

Tony

[ninchi]

I believe the watchdog bolts to solid metal and has 2 sensors, ostensibly for engine block and transmission but you can use them wherever. I'm not sure where they're actually mounted yet, it's on the list to figure out

The breather filter is here, sitting across what is usually just a single breather hose. I couldn't see a brand or model on it, so not sure exactly what the idea was. The breather hose only rates a very short mention about inspection in the workshop manual.

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However from what I've been able to determine, the idea is that the normal hose will allow (filtered) air to be sucked into the crankcase during engine braking. If driving in fine particulate dust, this may result in some particles making it through to the crankcase. I'm speculating based on the red dust in the battery box that the previous owner was trying to protect the crankcase on an outback trip.

[oldyella 76]

There was a DD 5 head for sale on the facebook market place recently, not sure if it still there nor the condition.
Lindsay.

[Slunnie]

If you replace the head, only get an AMC head. Its the permanent fix. 2nd hand factory heads will not be too far from a repeated result - I've walked that path before. The AMC heads are about $2500 direct from Turners in the UK, plus the other minor parts you will need.

[Discofender]

I wouldn't place too much faith in the anonymous FB post, sounds like a case of sour grapes. Let it sit overnight and drain the oil you'll soon see any coolant drain out before the oil.

However, with any new to you Td5 with few kms on it (esp a 10p) there are a number things to do as routine service to ensure you can trust it to give you faithful service.

I bought my 3rd one (2nd D2a) back in April and am still working my way through my to do list.

I would add ditching the cheap looking catch can/breather setup to that list and get a provent......


Cheers Discofender