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Thread: TDV6 oil cooler replacement - any other preventative maintenance tasks when in there?

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    Question TDV6 oil cooler replacement - any other preventative maintenance tasks when in there?

    Looks like my TDV6 oil cooler is leaking engine oil:



    When replacing the LR009570 engine oil cooler unit, is there any other parts needed or should be replaced when doing so? The coolant outlet neck would be one such. What about 1354290 fuel return pipe - it seems that the fuel pipe connections degrade and fail?

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    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    Looks like my TDV6 oil cooler is leaking engine oil:



    When replacing the LR009570 engine oil cooler unit, is there any other parts needed or should be replaced when doing so? The coolant outlet neck would be one such. What about 1354290 fuel return pipe - it seems that the fuel pipe connections degrade and fail?
    When you say it's leaking oil, do you mean externally?

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    Yes. Per the attached pictures the engine oil leak has filled up the valley of the V6 with oil (around 65mm deep of leaked oil) and it’s running down onto the ground.
    New oil filter and seal on the oil filter cover housing hasn’t change it at all.
    This leak was already occurring when I purchased the vehicle some months ago.

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    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    Looks like my TDV6 oil cooler is leaking engine oil:



    When replacing the LR009570 engine oil cooler unit, is there any other parts needed or should be replaced when doing so? The coolant outlet neck would be one such. What about 1354290 fuel return pipe - it seems that the fuel pipe connections degrade and fail?
    Have you done the job?

    What did you replace?

    I've got a failed HPFP and the Oil Cooler is also leaking.. I've put off the job for a few months. Interested to get a sense of what else you might have done while in there.

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    Once in there and depending on the kms on the engine I'd be looking at the glow plugs plus the connectors to them, any vac lines, and other plastics or rubber parts in there. The heat cycles makes the plastics brittle.

    When replacing the oil cooler, the new seals will sit proud, make sure the mating face on the block is flat and clean, and you have to stuff a rag into the coolant and oil galleries to avoid cross contamination, unless your doing an oil and coolant change as well.

    Clean out the coolant expansion tank of any oil (the cooler fails typically external and into coolant, not coolant into oil) and look at replacing the throttle body o ring seal and y pieces seals as well.

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    2 x 133760 seals also look to be required for the oil separator.

  7. #7
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    If they haven't been replaced before then the rubber tends to harden up. They're not difficult to replace while the oil sep is out. I did mine when I did the HPFP.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    If they haven't been replaced before then the rubber tends to harden up. They're not difficult to replace while the oil sep is out. I did mine when I did the HPFP.
    For the cheap price of the two seals I'd be replacing them when doing the oil cooler or HPFP jobs.
    Whilst getting the oil separator out is not complex, forcing and flexing that plastic unit so much isn't nice and not something I'd like to repeat if I can avoid.

    Everything is stripped down now and awaiting the parts delivery for reassemble.

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