Service Related Issues 2.7 and 6HP

[101RRS]

I now service my car every 10,000km and it is now coming up to 240,000km.

I have always put Nulon Diesel Engine full synthetic 5W-30 and it seems to have been working well with no smoke from the engine and no loss of oil between oil changes. I have been following the discussion on changing to 5W-40 oil and have resisted so far, however at 240,000km the bearings in the engine must have a bit of wear on them so this time around will change to 5W-40. As I have said I am using Nulon but am happy to change brands as long as I can get the oil easily from places like Supercheap and Repco as long as it comes in 10 litre containers.

So what are the recommendations on what full synthetic 5W-40 diesel oil to use that is readily available.

Second, I do a basic drop of gearbox oil every 40,000km changing about 5 liters of oil at a time. It is now due this service. I replaced the plastic sump with the metal one 90,000km ago so what is the thought of how often the filter should be changed? As usual the sump is not designed so the filter can be easily removed, so if it is needed to be changed I will have to drop the sump which is a pain as it is hard to get at the little bolts where the cross member is.

So advice please on how often the gearbox filter should be changed.

Thanks

Garry

[Graeme]

Regarding access to the tranny sump bolts, my brother drilled holes through the cross-member to allow a socket to be used on those hidden bolts in his 08 TDV8 RRS.

[101RRS]

Yes - I considered that when I put the sump on - was a real pain but after what seemed like hours, I managed to get them tight. Why didn't that provide an access point to replace the filter with the sump on?

[loanrangie]

Plenty of what oil posts so a quick search will bring up multiple options but penrite hpr5 is popular.

I would say it's time to replace the trans filter.

[PerthDisco]

I agree if you pump out 5 litres of gearbox oil through the cooler line and add 5 occasionally as you go then the filter only needs to be done around 80-100k kms. Difficulty is related to having a really small socket set or putting a bit into a ratchet spanner for the tight ones.

When doing the gearbox filter change my plan next time is to pump out via cooler on Day 1 with engine cold as that way you get the largest sump contents then on Day 2 remove sump after everything fully drains into sump again and that way you should get maximum gearbox oil out.

I check in between the engine oil filter fins each change and am always pleased to see nothing shiny in there at 300k kms. HPR5 for me.

[101RRS]

Ok then so Penrite HPR5 it is then for the engine.

I guess I also need to replace the gearbox filter as well - nasty job that I will have to do next week - going for a op soon and will be offline and not able to drive or work on things for a while. I have the micro tools but this time I might buy cheapies to make them even more micro - failing that, holes through the cross member.

Thanks for the info

Garry

[loanrangie]

Is the clearance worse than a D3 ? , I have a stubby ratchet that worked well with the from bolts and accessed them from the engine side.

[101RRS]

I am not sure but I assume so - all I remember is using 1/4" drive with a small torx and also an allen key that can be used at angles and it was a slow tiresome job.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Support the gearbox and engine and drop the cross member.

[Tombie]

Is the clearance worse than a D3 ? , I have a stubby ratchet that worked well with the from bolts and accessed them from the engine side.

Same - Stubby ratchet gets it done nicely