I recently changed my rear pads. In the process i destroyed the wear part that clips into the brack pad. Ok I thought I bought one of those leads ages ago, Removed the old one connected the new one but for the life of me I cannot get the electrical clip near the chasis rail to clip in place. it seems to not want to go all the way in. Now I presume because the front brakes were changed 6 month ago, that the light comming on is because I have a faulty connection. I am wondering if I stick some foil in the plug and short out the pins should that make the car think everything is ok? I dont care about any warning as I change my pads every 3 years as routine service. and there is still plenty of meat on them when I do. Thanks
2016.5 TDV6 Graphite D4,Corris Grey,APT sliders,Goe air comp plate,UHF & HF radio,Airflow snorkel,Discrete Winch,Compo rims with 265/65/18 Wildpeak AT3W, LLAMs,Traxide dual battery,EAS emergency kit,Mitch Hitch EGR blank & delete,ECU remap
Before I recently replaced my wear sensors I’d cut the cable and soldered it together, so yes, you can do that to make it go away
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
I had a similar problem not being able to get the connectors to mate correctly. Deep inside the female one is an o ring. Give it a spray with silicone or PTFE in that spot. Mine clicked together like magic.
2016 Discovery 4 SDV6 HSE, Mitch hitch, Traxide dual battery, LLAMS, iCheck TPMS, APT side steps and compressor cover.
2016 AOR Matrix Pop Top camper trailer, now sold.
2023 Sunseeker Desert Storm (aka Titanium Hardcore ATX)
2016.5 TDV6 Graphite D4,Corris Grey,APT sliders,Goe air comp plate,UHF & HF radio,Airflow snorkel,Discrete Winch,Compo rims with 265/65/18 Wildpeak AT3W, LLAMs,Traxide dual battery,EAS emergency kit,Mitch Hitch EGR blank & delete,ECU remap
Further update
I shorted out the rear pad wires as i had the old cable. The lwarning light did not go out, I then started to look at the front. Even though I have not touched the front brakes for a while I decided to see if that was the problem So I shorted out the front wiring. And the warning light is still on. I have an IID tool. Can it tell me which brake pad is sending the warning. I am at loss to work out why the dash light still appears.
thanks
2016.5 TDV6 Graphite D4,Corris Grey,APT sliders,Goe air comp plate,UHF & HF radio,Airflow snorkel,Discrete Winch,Compo rims with 265/65/18 Wildpeak AT3W, LLAMs,Traxide dual battery,EAS emergency kit,Mitch Hitch EGR blank & delete,ECU remap
Further to that, the circuit is a a simple series circuit. One sensor is connected to ground, the other to the cluster and both together. There's no way of knowing where the fault lies using the IID.
Having said that, if you can get to the connectors just poke them with a volt meter. All 4 pins across both sensors should be at ground potential (or very close) provided both sensors are intact. Keep following the wiring until you find a positive voltage and you've located the fault.
MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.
New wear sensor leads are not expensive, so without modifying the circuitry and causing other issuea (like warnimg lights that wont go out...), just treat them as a consumable as well and replace them.
I use a blast of compressed air and a bit of rubber grease on the connectors.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks