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Thread: Should I spend more on SIII Landy

  1. #1
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    Should I spend more on SIII Landy

    I need help to try to figure out what I should do?
    I have always wanted Series Landrover. So I got one.I spent $3000 on the chassis and fire wall and windows getting them to non rust of RW state. Now I have sent it to a LAndy Spec. get the RW done. (I don't have much experance with landrover) It needs all the brakes done, seatbelt fitted and washers speedo and handbrake fixed. TO get a RW done. It will cost me another $3000 to do this.

    Should I cut my loses and sell it or dive in and get a RWC?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dayne
    I need help to try to figure out what I should do?
    I have always wanted Series Landrover. So I got one.I spent $3000 on the chassis and fire wall and windows getting them to non rust of RW state. Now I have sent it to a LAndy Spec. get the RW done. (I don't have much experance with landrover) It needs all the brakes done, seatbelt fitted and washers speedo and handbrake fixed. TO get a RW done. It will cost me another $3000 to do this.

    Should I cut my loses and sell it or dive in and get a RWC?
    The figure of $3000 that work seems a little high for the work described, although this depends on what state the brakes are in. Replacing all shoes, wheel cylinders and drums should be less than $1000 for parts, and there's not that much labour, speedo is probably just the cable, and the others are fairly small jobs, although small jobs add up.

    The question as to whether to cut your losses will depend on what you want to do and the condition of the rest of the vehicle. One thing that is certain, is that if you spend $6000 on a S3 it will almost certainly still be worth less than this - but it may be a good vehicle that will serve you for years. But the same comment can be made about any vehicle that age - spending money on them does not give a proportionate increase in value.
    John
    John

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    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
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  3. #3
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    Is it the one in your avatar? Can I have it? I bet it would pass an inspection here .

  4. #4
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    Hi there

    My opinion - the quote your have been given seems a little costly for the brakes - for example: - I have just done up all the brakes on my series IIa Fire Tender. (will me doing all the work cost me less than $400.)

    I know if the hubs are worn - they can be costly (approx $100 plus each) but there is plenty of second hand ones available.

    I get sentimental towards vehciles - and usually spend more on them than what they are worth.

    We are lucky within SA - we do not have roadworth checks every year.

    At

  5. #5
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    If the car was not fitted with seatbelts when it was manufactured, there is no requirement to now fit them (unless of course, you want them).

    (That's two AULRO members in Samford. P38Ace is the other).

    Ron
    Last edited by p38arover; 17th October 2006 at 01:40 PM.
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  6. #6
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    Hi Dayne,
    I have a IIA project going at the moment and have replaced all the brake and clutch cylinders and brake pipes and it has cost me no where near that figure you have been quoted. I can dig out some costs of the parts I got if you are interested.

    Where did you get the quote from?

    Russ

  7. #7
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    How are you at mechanical work? i'd be inclined to get the parts and do the work myself rather than pay that much for it. That quote seems much to high to me.
    1994 Discovery TDi
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  8. #8
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    I did the front seat belts in my Series when I bought them - cost about $180 for 2 and a little bit of time. Since then I've located a source on the web (but am at work so don't have the link) that can supply at about $60-70 per belt (they're Australian too).

    Can't comment on brakes but does seem like a lot.

    I replaced my speedo with one from ebay - cost me $60 all up (cable was fine but 25% speedo error). If any speedo is good enough, you're welcome to my old one. Could be re-magnetised but don't know the cost. The car did pass RWC with the error when I bought it, but thought it might be a bit harder on a RWC for sale.

    Washers no big deal.

    The hand brake in mine only works in reverse anyway. This is a fair bit of mucking around as far as I can see, but will have to be done if yours doesn't work at all.

    Seriously, you either decide you're spending the money (I see it as being in place of depreciation) or you sell the car and cut your losses. Mine is for sale - and I don't expect to get more than about $3000 for it without RWC and it's a V8 wagon. You definitely won't add $3000 to the value of the vehicle by spending the money, but 30 year old vehicles are money pits regardless of what sort of condition they are in when you buy them. Mine "owes" me perhaps $9000 - but I'd have lost more on depreciation if I bought a new one and sold it 2 years later, so what does it matter?

    If you were going to immediately buy another just like it though, I'd say "better the devil you know." You could be up for the full $6000 on the next one as well.

    Steve

  9. #9
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    More than the brakes

    The quote was also for a service,and many other things listed. I'm Ok working on cars but my wife is tired of having the landy at home. Are the brakes hard to fit.

    The front hub also needs replacing but to pass RW the work shop said to repack with grease and a little oil and it should last a little longer.

  10. #10
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    Yes I know what you mean with SWMBO. I can tell you a story or two about when I got mine (should I say 2) I thought I was going to get divorced. Now every one of her friends has heard the story.

    The brakes are not hard to do. The hub is fairly straight forward as well. I replaced wheel bearings in the front when I did the brakes but did not bother with the back ones.

    A manual helps if you are a bit unsure. I have both the Haynes and the Landrover one. The net is a good tool as well. If you haven't got any manuals come and look at mine. PM me and I will give you some contact details.

    We all need a big shed somewhere to store our toys in. Maybe we should setup a workshop somewhere.

    Russ

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