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Thread: S1 Indentification Numbers

  1. #1
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    Question S1 Indentification Numbers

    I have got my eyes on a 1950(ish) S1 for purchase, only problem is that it is a few hours drive away from where I live.

    So that I can ask the vendor to provide some more information on the vehicle, could those knowledgeable ones out there please let me know where the chassis number(s) can be located on the vehicle?

    Also it appears that the vehicle may have had an engine change at some stage. Where is the engine number located on the block? Can the engine type/size (1.6/2.0/2.25L etc) be determined from the engine number, or are there other easy ways to tell the differences between the different engines?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjc_td5 View Post
    I have got my eyes on a 1950(ish) S1 for purchase, only problem is that it is a few hours drive away from where I live. ...
    .... Can the engine type/size (1.6/2.0/2.25L etc) be determined from the engine number, or are there other easy ways to tell the differences between the different engines?

    Thanks
    Everything can be told from the numbers.

    On the 80" the chassis number will be stamped on the LHS engine mount. (ignore the group of 4 numbers)


    The number you are interested will start with:
    • 86???? = 1948 (Only 6 numbers and a must buy vehicle for the real enthusiast)
    • 866???? = 1949
    • 0610???? = early 1950

    early 1950 and earlier look like this:

    Photo of Bevan Fenner's 1950 (Mike Kelly photographer)
    • 0611???? = Late 1950
    • 16?????? = 1951

    Late 1950 and 1951 look like this:

    All the above have 1.6 litre engines

    The engines should have the alloy oil filler and the number can be found on the vertical surface just behind the filler and next to the exhaust manifold.
    • 26?????? = 1952
    • 36?????? = 1953

    Have 2 litre siamese bore engines and look like this

    After the 80" they all look the same to me. (No really but)
    • 47?????? = 1954
    • 57?????? = 1955
    • 11?6????? or 12?6???? = 1956
    • 11?7????? or 12?7???? = 1957
    • 11?8????? or 12?8???? = 1958
    • 14?8????? 0r 15?8???? = 1958 Series 2
    • 14?9????? 0r 15?9???? = 1959 Series 2
    • etc
    • Anything with a letter suffix = Series 2a


    Photo and owner: Dane Hendrickson's 1954 Victoria (Just restored and registered this week)

    The later spread bore 2 litre engines have their oil filter under the inlet manifold on the RHS of the engine.
    The 2 1/4 litre engines have the inlet manifold and exhaust manifold on the same side (LHS)
    Last edited by Lotz-A-Landies; 19th October 2007 at 09:20 AM.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  3. #3
    Roverray Guest
    The first post my confuse you a little, the number is on the front left engine mount as per photo. May require some brushing to find or the Rover ID plate is on the firewall under the bonet on the left side for early S1.

  4. #4
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    G'day cjc td5

    The easy way to tell the difference from 80inch and 86inch, is that the 80" the rear edges of the door taper in towards the bottom, the 86/88 the rear door edge is verticle that will tell if it is 80 or 86/88 even before checking engine/car numbers 86 started late 1953.

    cheers

  5. #5
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    G'day cjc td5

    The easy way to tell if it is an 80 inch or an 86/88 inch is the rear face of the door on an 80" slopes forward(forward slash) and the 86 rear door face is verticle that will identify it as 80" or 86/88" before you go searching Engine/Car numbers the 86" started late 1953. Pre Spring 1951 the parking lamps were on the Firewall


    cheers

  6. #6
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    Thanks for info

    Thanks all for your contributions.
    Vehicle is on ebay at present but is located out at Cootamundra so is a bit hard to "eyeball". From your contributions it looks like a 1951 80" with 2.25L conversion.

    The main appeal is that at least it runs and appears to have been stored out of the weather. Appears to badly need a better paint job (though this doesn't worry me as I have access to the right gear and time rather than money is the biggest input). Of course there are the normal potential rust issues etc to be investigated.

    Too busy at present to travel to inspect this one. Hope to get serious about acquiring "the project" early next year.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjc_td5 View Post
    Thanks all for your contributions.

    Too busy at present to travel to inspect this one. Hope to get serious about acquiring "the project" early next year.
    Always time to acquire a Series 1 - I guess you'll then be getting to know Jeff Rainford in Kinghorn Street. It's a pity most of his 80" s1 spares have gone but he is a good resource of knowledge and some parts.

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

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