Reply With QuoteThe transfer cases do develop lash, as do the diffs. If its driving ok it is probably just 312,000km of lash buildup. I had my transfer shimmed up to get rid of this at about 90,000km.
Master
1993 Discovery - Transmission problem?
Evening,
I just purchased a 1993 Discovery V8i 3dr, running on duel fuel.
It has done 312000km, mostly highway. I purchased it from a retired couple, travelling throughout Oz etc.
I have a question, hopefully you may be able to tell me the severity of the below issue I've noticed.
I should mention its a 4sp auto, and when I change gears, R to D or D to R, there is a loud crack. Hard to explain, but it shakes the car and feels like a metal to metal clash.
It only happens when the transfer case is in L or H, not in neutral.
When driving, the auto trans is smooth as silk.
I suspect its a transfer case problem, it is leaking ever so slightly, however, the oil is clean and pink.
I hope someone can offer some help
Swaggie
The transfer cases do develop lash, as do the diffs. If its driving ok it is probably just 312,000km of lash buildup. I had my transfer shimmed up to get rid of this at about 90,000km.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
Master
Could you please elaborate on "lash" - I've never heard of it in diffs or transmissions?
OldBushie
Originally Posted by d3funct
Evening,
I just purchased a 1993 Discovery V8i 3dr, running on duel fuel.
It has done 312000km, mostly highway. I purchased it from a retired couple, travelling throughout Oz etc.
I have a question, hopefully you may be able to tell me the severity of the below issue I've noticed.
I should mention its a 4sp auto, and when I change gears, R to D or D to R, there is a loud crack. Hard to explain, but it shakes the car and feels like a metal to metal clash.
It only happens when the transfer case is in L or H, not in neutral.
When driving, the auto trans is smooth as silk.
I suspect its a transfer case problem, it is leaking ever so slightly, however, the oil is clean and pink.
I hope someone can offer some help
"tis driveline backlash, either excessive wear in the centre, front, rear diff.......or all the above, or may well be worn input to transfer, or something unusual
Where abouts are you??
Master
Just updated my profile and bits... I'm in Perth.
I shall do some investigating on this problem, hopefully it isnt too costly!
OldBushie
have someone...that you trust with your life.....sit inside with their foot firmly on the brake.......
and have them change gears whilst you have a look underneath to try and pinpoint the noise......
it could simply a loose propshaft........
do not place any part of your body in line with any of the wheels.....and make sure to chock all 4 wheels before commencing.........
just to be on the safe side.........
if you dont see anything obvious......grab all the big spanners you have....and get underneath and tighten up every nut and bolt you find......
you will be surprised at how loose some of them will be.......
especially the three in the upper rear shock mount......
even if this dont fix your problem......you will notice a difference straight away......
OldBushie
Oh, flogged A frame balljoint will do it to
And some BADLY worn bushes
Master
I did as you advised, and the noise is coming from the front prop shaft, which I guess would be excessive backlash.
I can move the propshaft by hand, about 1-2cm, would this indicate a worn unijoint?
I will take it to the mechanic, and have them overhaul the shaft.
Would this be an indication of something else to come? Or would it have caused any damage further along the drive train?
Cheers.
RoverLord
thats about a normal amount of free play for the front end might be a little bit much check it again with the front wheels off of the ground, nuetral selected on the tcase and the CDL in the unlocked position. (parkbrake on)
turn the propshaft by hand untill the front wheel moves and then turn the shaft back the other way. If the amount of movement increases thats bad if its the same its reasonable.
once youve got that done leave the CDL out, select first on the gearbox low or high on the tcase then repeat ignore the movement of the front wheel and check the amount of movement you get from the shaft. repeat for the other range on the tcase and see what happens than. Once youve got that done check reverse on the gearbox.
All things being equal the amount of movement on the shaft should stay the same.
engage the CDL and the shaft play should drop significantly.
ok now drop the vehicle onto all 4 wheels and with the park brake applied try to move the vehicle off in first high with the cdl locked then try reverse if you hear a clunk at this point more than likely its the output shaft from the gearbox or the main gear on the tcase.
now release the park brake ride the clutch in reverse low (cdl locked) then do the fastest shift into any forwad gear you can grab and ride the cluth up quickly. If you get an almighty bang more than likely its the rear ball joint. repeat this test with the CDL open and if the bang gets worse then it IS the CDL.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Master
give richard (kie 4) a call he's a mobile landrover mechanic based in northern suburbs of perth and is both very good and very reasonable his number is 0408019568.
jason
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