Getting the Series 1 Ready for Cooma

[gromit]

I've been busy working on replacing all the axle seals, wheel bearings (where needed), brakes and the dreaded spring & chassis bushes.
I didn't like the idea of burning out the chassis bushes so I got my father-in-law to turn up an extractor. He turned up the parts and I tracked down some high tensile allthread (metric sizes are relatively cheap)
The front chassis bush is the longest and therefore the hardest to remove. I found that it wouldn't budge with the extractor so I used a hacksaw to cut through the inner steel bush, the rubber and then the outer steel bush. Cutting the steel is easy but the rubber tends to clog the blade so I switched to an 18tpi blade and twisted it left & right as I sawed and eventually removed the rubber down to the outer bush.
In with the extractor and after some hard work the bush(s) were removed. I found that the front chassis bush was actually 2 smaller bushes (checked the parts manual and it also shows two) but replaced it with the single longer bush.
Spring bushes were much, much easier.

Front axle is now done, I've started the rear but hit a few other problems like the collars on the rear driveshafts (semi-floating axle) being held in place by a blob of weld !
Once that's done then it's time for all new brake pipes then get it mobile again...........




Colin

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I've been busy working on replacing all the axle seals, wheel bearings (where needed), brakes and the dreaded spring & chassis bushes.
I didn't like the idea of burning out the chassis bushes so I got my father-in-law to turn up an extractor. He turned up the parts and I tracked down some high tensile allthread (metric sizes are relatively cheap)
....Colin

Bobslandies has a set of punches or drifts for pushing out/in bushes. they have a centre spike to locate and an outer ring that is just smaller than the diameter of the hole in the chassis.

They are huge, the main one about 2' 6" long round stock.

I person holds the drift and a second person using a 10 pound sledge hammer hits the drift. A case of when i nod my head you hit it.

Sounds brutal but it is far quicker than most other methods for old bushes.

Diana

[numpty]

I've been busy working on replacing all the axle seals, wheel bearings (where needed), brakes and the dreaded spring & chassis bushes.
I didn't like the idea of burning out the chassis bushes
Colin

I used that cut through everything method the first time I did spring bushes.

Trust me, it is so much easier to burn out the rubber, which removes the inner bush as well, leaving only the outer to cut through. I was also reticent to use the torch the first time.

Diana's method sounds good too. That's the trouble with old stuff, the longer the bushes are there, the harder it is to get them out. Have even had to cut the shackle bolts in the past, as they were siezed in the bushes.

[gromit]

Cooma seems to only just around the corner and every time I work on the Series 1 there's another problem.

I still need to sort out the rear axle collars, managed to file down the weld and remove the first collar just need to replace the seals, wheel bearings and get it pressed back together again.
Dropped the rear drive shaft and found a small amount of play in one of the UJ's. When I stripped it I found it was badly worn (yet still full of grease) so I had to replace it. The seals were felt so I guess it might be original, sliding joint seal was cork (I think) and crumbled into pieces as it was removed.
The other UJ is also felt sealed but no play so I'll leave that one alone (fingers crossed).
Took the handbrake assembly off and found the seal in the transfer box was a leather one and not doing too good a job of keeping the oil in. Brake shoes had cracked linings, different sized rivets and the lining overhung the shoe in a couple of places. They're off being relined.
The seal on the input of the rear axle was also found to be a leather one, either original or replaced a long time ago.
Tried to remove one of the rear springs tonight and found that I either have to cut a couple of the bolts (difficult to replace) or drop the extra fuel tank fitted under the rear of the tray. I wanted to flush it out at some point so that's next to come out.
I was wondering when it will all end but then I remembered, it's a Land Rover so it never really ends.........

Colin

[gromit]

Up until recently the Series 1 has been under a tarp, on axle stands, on a gravel driveway. Great fun to work on !
Finally got her mobile again and into a part built shed (seem to be juggling time between the family, the Series 1, building a shed, the Defender oh and of course work......).

Ended up buying a Chinese 20ton press ($220) to press the rear axles together, it's also made fitting seals and other bearings so much easier.

Hope to get the brakes bled at the weekend. I made all new rigid pipes, replaced the flexi's, resealed the master cylinder & front wheel cylinders and replaced the rear cylinders.
Next I'll replace all the hoses, flush the cooling system and then paint the roof of the canvas clad plywood hardtop. Once the new tyres are fitted she needs a few shakedown runs and then we're as ready as we'll ever be ......

Colin

[gromit]

Father-in-law helped with bleeding the brakes at the weekend. Ended up very spongy but by clamping all the flexi's then releasing one-by-one managed to prove that air was out of master cylinder and problems were mainly with the rear brakes. Found a few issues such as the new shoes only making contact at the heels (think the shoes are trying to flex to make full contact hence spongy feel to pedal) so either need a long drive with the brakes on to bed them in or more likely I'll file shoes until the contact with the drums is better.
Found that the welder generator was loose, spend about an hour stripping things out until we could get to the front mounting bolt to tighten it.
Increased the capacity of the cooling system by about 10% by flushing out years & years of sediment. Managed to get suitable hoses from Supercheap, just matched to the old perished ones and chopped off the bits not needed. They also had a thermostat & gasket which fitted with a little persuasion.
This Series 1 is fitted with an additional tank under the rear floor, which I think the previous owner relied on. Dropped the original underseat tank and drained out about 20litres of 12 year old petrol, then took out handfuls of sediment, rust scale and goodness knows what else...
Dual tank system is selected via a switch on the dash, changing tanks changes the fuelpump used (electronic type not original) and also which sender is connected to the gauge. I think the extra fuel capacity will be useful on the trip to Cooma.

Not many weeks to go but looks like it will be ready........

Colin

[gromit]

Decided to repair the homemade hardtop (canvas covered plywood) this weekend because I'm worried that it will leak badly if it rains at Cooma.
Turned out to be one of those jobs that probably should have been left well alone until after Cooma because of the extent of the rot. Removed the louvres and found rotten plywood and rotten timber structure, thankfully it's only this area that's bad (or at least visibly bad).
Had fun finding timber because it's all imperial dimensions, so ended up having to machine to size. Got the main parts replaced today, should get some canvas glued in place & painted next weekend.
Tyres should be in around the 8th of March so there's not going to be much time left for shakedown runs before Cooma......

Colin

[olmate]

You have been busy mate but she is coming along well. Doing good.

[gromit]

Hardtop now repaired, busy fitting some of the door seals then we are just about ready.
Mounted spare inside as I wasn't too keen on bonnet mounting in case we spend a lot of time with the bonnet up ! New Dunlop RTM's fitted, now manufactured in Indonesia and have changed to 8-ply (originals were 6-ply).
Lots of electrical issues over the past week or so. Mostly due to the rubber on the bullet connectors de-composing and running inside the connector. Not sure how but it ends completely coating the bullet so that there is no electrical connection. Fixed this then lost all electrics, turned out to be a bad connection at the starter solenoid.......

Took it out a few times at the weekend (must practice my double de-clutching) and it's OK except running a bit rich with a huge flatspot. It's fitted with a holden carby & airfilter, haven't got time to strip & overhaul it so hope that it's going to be OK. Father-in-law thinks it's best to run a little rich than too lean (something about burning out exhaust valves). Not sure if running rich with fuel at over $1.50 per litre is a good idea but at this late stage not much choice.
Flat spot may be down to accelerator pump not working or not delivering correct amount of fuel, any theories or info on setting a Holden carby ?


Colin

[101RRS]

Why not duck down to the local wreckers and get another holden carb (less than $40) clean it up an take it for a spare - just in case.

Garry