Series 1 Door Seals

[gromit]

I'd like to plug some of the leaks around the doors before driving to Cooma and wondered if anyone can recommend a supplier for the door seals.

The seals are in an advanced stage of decomposition so it's difficult to even determine the original profile. It's held in place by steel strips fixed to the body with bifurcated rivets but I'm not sure whether the strips were enclosed within the seal or not.

Clarke rubber (and Scotts Old Auto Rubber ) have a profile (260.011) which I believe is for the Series 2. I got a sample and it's too big to fit the series 1. Scotts also have another profile (260.058) which might work, depending on it's size.
http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/page16.jpg

Any help would be appreciated.

Colin

[Rangier Rover]

I'd like to plug some of the leaks around the doors before driving to Cooma and wondered if anyone can recommend a supplier for the door seals.

The seals are in an advanced stage of decomposition so it's difficult to even determine the original profile. It's held in place by steel strips fixed to the body with bifurcated rivets but I'm not sure whether the strips were enclosed within the seal or not.

Clarke rubber (and Scotts Old Auto Rubber ) have a profile (260.011) which I believe is for the Series 2. I got a sample and it's too big to fit the series 1. Scotts also have another profile (260.058) which might work, depending on it's size.
http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/page16.jpg

Any help would be appreciated.

Colin

This is a rough fix.. Run a heap of silicone allong old seal and put masking tape over it wait a few mins then gently close the door. I'ts not proper but will get you out strife till you find new ones.
Cheers RR.

[gromit]

Thanks for the idea RR but I'm looking for something more permanent.
I think I can get a seal that will do but then need to look at how to mount it. Not too keen on gluing in place, the original was held in with steel strips and bifurcated rivets.
Got a price for some 6mm bifurcated rivets in copper (would prefer aluminium) at $25 for 20 !! Seems a little expensive, does anyone know a source of rivets at a reasonable cost ?

Colin

[numpty]

Thanks for the idea RR but I'm looking for something more permanent.
I think I can get a seal that will do but then need to look at how to mount it. Not too keen on gluing in place, the original was held in with steel strips and bifurcated rivets.
Got a price for some 6mm bifurcated rivets in copper (would prefer aluminium) at $25 for 20 !! Seems a little expensive, does anyone know a source of rivets at a reasonable cost ?

Colin

If you find anything in the way of seals and or rivets, let us know Colin, as Leon's door seals are decidedly second hand also.

[Bigbjorn]

Try Universal Engineers Supplies. Got branches in the three eastern state capitals. They supply all kinds of coach and motor body builders supplies

[ellard]

Hi there all

I did quite a bit of research on the door seals - and opted for an aftermarket seal from "Clark Rubber' in Adelaide.

Its not the same as the original as I have glued it in and it works a treat. Personally I think it is better now than when they were originally built.

The series one is curently at in Port Augusta getting the canvas lockers tops fabricated but will post some pictures next week when I get home.

All the best

Wayne

[gromit]

Wayne,

You don't happen to remember the number of the profile you used do you ?
One I got a sample of was listed for a Land Rover but I think it was for the Series 2 and seemed too big.


Colin

[ellard]

Hi there

I am away with work at the moment - but will get back with the profile next week for you.

All the besty

Wayne

[gromit]

I checked out the remains of the old door seals and re-looked at the profile Clark Rubber have listed as "Land Rover Door Seal".
The profile 260.011 isn't 'correct' but will allow the seals to be fixed as per original (as long as I can source the rivets). The original has a strip of plated steel slid inside, I will probably try aluminium (although I couldn't find anything thin enough at 10mm width so I had to get some sheet guillotined to size).
Most of the seal is fixed using 1/4" tubular rivets, one piece uses bifurcated rivets.
Tried a couple of bolt suppliers today and got blank looks when asking for the bifurcated rivet, aluminium tubular rivet got a better response but everything I found had a head that was too big and they had nothing as short as I needed. Will try some trim suppliers over the next few weeks. Did find a saddlery supplier in West Melbourne that could possibly supply the bifurcated rivets Leffler Saddlery

I think pop-rivets will pull the strip down too tight and squeeze the foam every which way. The alternative is to glue in place. As I'm not painting yet I really don't want to destroy $80's worth of seals when I finally get round to painting it....

Have attached some sketches of my guess at the original profile, mounting details etc.


Colin

[JDNSW]

I checked out the remains of the old door seals and re-looked at the profile Clark Rubber have listed as "Land Rover Door Seal".
The profile 260.011 isn't 'correct' but will allow the seals to be fixed as per original (as long as I can source the rivets). The original has a strip of plated steel slid inside, I will probably try aluminium (although I couldn't find anything thin enough at 10mm width so I had to get some sheet guillotined to size).
Most of the seal is fixed using 1/4" tubular rivets, one piece uses bifurcated rivets.
Tried a couple of bolt suppliers today and got blank looks when asking for the bifurcated rivet, aluminium tubular rivet got a better response but everything I found had a head that was too big and they had nothing as short as I needed. Will try some trim suppliers over the next few weeks. Did find a saddlery supplier in West Melbourne that could possibly supply the bifurcated rivets Leffler Saddlery

I think pop-rivets will pull the strip down too tight and squeeze the foam every which way. The alternative is to glue in place. As I'm not painting yet I really don't want to destroy $80's worth of seals when I finally get round to painting it....

Have attached some sketches of my guess at the original profile, mounting details etc.


Colin

It was probably originally held with tubular rivets. Tubular rivets were commonly used for brake linings, and should be available from any long established auto supplies. Bifurcated rivets are the traditional type of rivet used for canvas and leather. A saddlery supply place should have them.

My 2a had the seals held with pop rivets, and this is what I used when I replaced them when I repainted it. There were no problems with excessive compression, but I strongly suggest that you drill the metal strip first, and make sure the rubber is stretched slightly when fastening it.

John