I am not a fan of this but I have seen it done before on other vehicles. The blokes spoke of "wedges" to compensate for thes increase in angles etc. Hopefully someone can put it more technically correct than I.![]()
I know there was a thread about under slinging the diff on a series but what i am wanting to know is . How can you change the set up of the uni's to stop them from jamming up and breaking ? Just looking at it there would be a nice big angle on the drive shafts and i think it would screw the shafts out super quick . Any ideas ?
I am not a fan of this but I have seen it done before on other vehicles. The blokes spoke of "wedges" to compensate for thes increase in angles etc. Hopefully someone can put it more technically correct than I.![]()
theres a hand full of options the cheap ones a bit harsh but works and the other 2 are expensive but a lot better.
first of simply angle the diffs so that the pinion is pointin more upwards than normal. this is a bit rough on the shaft Ujs and can cause shaft unbalance but its the cheapest option and better than leaving everything alone.
next you fit up a double carden joing to the gearbox side and have the shafts shortened to accomodate them. this is the next cheapest option to setup but introduces more flex points in the shaft but if you get it right the first time round isnt too bad till the DC claps out.
The last option is to have the whole shaft rebuild using CV joints instead of UJs its expensive first up but providing you keep the CV;s sealed and serviced regulalry without overloading them (not a problem if you get the right ones first up or havent repowered with something with more nuts than the rover6) they last an age.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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The 101 has under slung axles on a 101" wheelbase. The angle in the driveshafts is pretty viscious and the unis do have a short lifespan but it is doable - an 88 would be a worry though.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
A DC joint doesn't necessarily have the ability to produce more of an angle that a regular uni, and you need to have the pinion pointing at the TC flange to run this with reduced vibration - they will still vibrate with big angles.
you can get specific uni joints that are designed to run at big angles, and they have longer yolks and can run at larger angles without binding. Toyota also make a high angle DC joint for the Hilux on some models if you want to head down that path, but will have to adapt it, and the problem with adapters is that they shorten the driveshaft. High angles does cause exponentially accelerated wear and vibration.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
Garry
Wouldn't it be nice it you could have the salisburies fitted upside down on the 101. There would be a lot less angle on the unis but virtually no lubrication to the pinion.
Perhaps a little oil pump?
It is the compromise between the hypoid design and the spiral bevel design.
Diana
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Why convert to spring over? Here's my 2a with 35x12.5 on 8"Rims with 95mm Back space. A guard trim and nothing touches on full lock. I done springover on series rovers before its not worth it unless fitting truck diffs and larger than 35's.
Cheers RR.
Now i have a few spare diff housings sitting around . So I was thinking of cutting the bump stops and the flat piece that the springs bolt to off and rewelding the flat piece to the top of the housing on an angle to reduce uni wear . Is this a good idea or a dodgie one ?![]()
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