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Thread: More conversion questions

  1. #1
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    More conversion questions

    Hi again,

    I've looked through the archeives, but couldn't find an answer to my following questions - most likely due to my idiocy

    I have 2 conversion questions - I've previously considered restoring my current series 3 petrol 2.25, but am considering options.

    1) what's the process to convert to a landy 2.25 diesel? presumably all the mounts are the same? I like diesels, especially the fuel economy

    2) Is converting my series III to be like a series III stage 1 something that is easily done?? and if so, has anyone done it?

    Thanks so much guys.

  2. #2
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    1. Conversion to diesel - replace engine with 2.25 diesel. Everything bolts up, add fuel return line, throttle linkage a bit different, wiring a bit different, new front exhaust pipe, that is about it. Oh, you should fit heavier front springs as the diesel is heavier.

    2. Conversion to Stage 1 - nowhere near as easy. The front axle is unique, the chassis and steering arrangement different, engine and gearbox mounts different. It can be done, but the Stage 1 axles (rear 3.54 diff, front just about everything different for full time four wheel drive) are found in the same place you find hen's teeth. It could be done - BUT! To do it would need dedication, money and perseverance.
    An alternative, would be to fit another diesel - more work than the Landrover diesel, but less than trying to do a stage 1 conversion.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    1. Conversion to diesel - replace engine with 2.25 diesel. Everything bolts up, add fuel return line, throttle linkage a bit different, wiring a bit different, new front exhaust pipe, that is about it. Oh, you should fit heavier front springs as the diesel is heavier.

    2. Conversion to Stage 1 - nowhere near as easy. The front axle is unique, the chassis and steering arrangement different, engine and gearbox mounts different. It can be done, but the Stage 1 axles (rear 3.54 diff, front just about everything different for full time four wheel drive) are found in the same place you find hen's teeth. It could be done - BUT! To do it would need dedication, money and perseverance.
    An alternative, would be to fit another diesel - more work than the Landrover diesel, but less than trying to do a stage 1 conversion.

    John
    I Agree. Stage 1 conversion is big job. Almost need a donor stage 1 to do it.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    1. Conversion to diesel - replace engine with 2.25 diesel. wiring a bit different,
    John
    you put wires on a 2.25 diesel.... All Ive got is cable and pipes.......
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    you put wires on a 2.25 diesel.... All Ive got is cable and pipes.......
    Heater plugs and switching for them? Fuel warning light?

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #6
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    99.87 MB
    I'm just about finished converting a IIa to something similar to a Stage1 and you are by far better off just going out and buying a Stage 1 instead.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  7. #7
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    Thanks again guys! Looks like the stage one concept is a bit out of my league Oh well.

    On another subject, can someone point me in the direction of a guide on how you remove all the front panels? Or is it really as easy as it looks

  8. #8
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    It really is just about as easy as it looks (except for rusted up bolts). The only point that is not obvious is the three (from memory) screws holding the rear edge of the mudguard to the bulkhead. These are accessible from inside the mudguard with an extension and socket. There are at least two different size heads from memory, one Whitworth size the other AF - mine has a mixture of sizes. The mudguard is best removed as a single unit.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #9
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    No need to unbolt the gaurd bolts totaly,except the top and bottom.Isnt they 5 or something in there???
    The top and bottom have a hole on the panel the rest have a slot so loosening is enogh to remove the gaurd.
    Andrew
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  10. #10
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    G'day Drumcouncellor

    It may well worth looking into fitting a 200TDI diesel motor (with or without turbo) into your Series 3 as the fit into the same engine mounts (with Diesel mount rubbers) and there is only one bolt difference to the Series gearbox, you can then uprate to 3.54 diff centres front and rear which will give reasonable road speed, as the 2.25diesel struggles to maintain 90 Kph

    cheers

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