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Thread: A How-To of old engine restoration?

  1. #1
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    A How-To of old engine restoration?

    Can anyone point me to a sticky or a link to a primer / tutorial on how to approach evaluating and then restoring an old engine that has sat for a few years.

    Let's say we know the engine DID work, but hasn't been run for yonks.

    Where to start?
    What to do?

    I know in broad detail the types of things to do, but I'd like to read up on a bit more detail. I guess this doesn't have to be specifically about LR's, but it'd be more useful if it was.

    Thanks

    Doug
    ---------------------------------------------
    "Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak."

  2. #2
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    G'day Brisso57

    I maybe able to help here, if the engine is complete and is known to be a runner, I would first advise to drain the old oil out,and replace with a cheap oil, as this can be used as a flushing oil, to remove built up gunk, that is, start and run the motor for about 30 minutes, then drop that oil and replace it with a good oil, I use Penrite Everyday Driving, also replace the oil filter element (cartridge type by removing the bolt in the centre at the bottom) it can be a little messy the filter cartridge is available it's part No is R2069P Ryco, with clean oil in it you will get a better idea of the bottom end condition, and not circulate dirt and gunk around the camshaft and other parts. before trying to start the motor clean and adjust the points 0.015 thou. and make sure you have a spark,drain the fuel tank as petrol these days only has a life of 3-5 months,refill with 5 litres of new fuel(Unleaded 91), carefully pour about 15ml of petrol down the carby throat, replace the aircleaner, and try to start, if it coughs, and dies, try another 15ml, it should start and run after a few tries, if you need any further info PM me as I am only to happy to help.

    cheers

  3. #3
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    Thanks for that.
    I was also intending to first top up the cooling system, and then let that sit for 24 hours, to ascertain if there were any serious leaks.

    Also, first remove all spark plugs and try turning the motor manually. Check plug gaps and replace.

    Check and adjust belt tensions.

    Then proceed as you've advised.

    Doug
    ---------------------------------------------
    "Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak."

  4. #4
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    Once you get it hot, do a compression test and record the figures with a wet and dry test; listen for big end bearing knocks etc.

    Cheers Charlie

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazza View Post
    Once you get it hot, do a compression test and record the figures with a wet and dry test; listen for big end bearing knocks etc.

    Cheers Charlie
    Hi Charlie,

    "a wet and dry test"? You'll have to explain that one, pls.

    Ta

    Doug
    ---------------------------------------------
    "Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak."

  6. #6
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    Do a compression test, then squirt some oil through the spark plug hole. This will make the rings seal a bit better. If the compression was low but then comes up, then the rings are worn. If the compression stays low, then there a valve stuck open a bit (valve clearance issues) or burnt. Two adjacent cylinders having a low reading, with the others fine, will indicate a blown head gasket.
    Aaron.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron IIA View Post
    Do a compression test, then squirt some oil through the spark plug hole. This will make the rings seal a bit better. If the compression was low but then comes up, then the rings are worn. If the compression stays low, then there a valve stuck open a bit (valve clearance issues) or burnt. Two adjacent cylinders having a low reading, with the others fine, will indicate a blown head gasket.
    Aaron.
    Thanks for the explanation.

    What (compression test result) range would you rate as acceptable?

    Doug
    ---------------------------------------------
    "Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak."

  8. #8
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    well assuming that its a sitter...

    start out by dropping the oil taking the line off of the carby and feeding it somefuel from a gravity feed bottle. wipe or blow out all the plug surrounds then
    drop in some cheap oil take out each of the plugs and put about 1 teaspoon of oil into the plug holes take the rockers covers off and give the valve train a lash of oil. turn the engine over 10 or so revolutions by hand. (its ok to use the fan for this if you have to) now hook up a battery and do your basic electrical checks on the ignition system including a couple of revolutions with the plugs in the leads but not installed to make sure they all spark ok. then plugs back in (it pays to clean them/fit new ones and regap them) with all the plugs in place turn the engine over by hand for a primative compression test

    If alls good drop a capfull of petrol down the throat of the carby, hook up the electrics and fire the starter over with a little luck it should start, or at least give you a sign of life.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  9. #9
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    The main thing with the compression test is that it is all relatively even. I would want more than 100psi. This would indicate that it is pretty worn, but will still work. These engines work well even when they are really worn, but will be down a little bit on power.
    Aaron.

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