stripped my original 2.25 petrol motor

[srowlandson]

unbolted everything and carefully laid it all out on my spare bench so i know whats what and what goes where.

have to unbolt the flywheel, bell housing and front pulley to get the crank out. big ends are all unbolted and i have un bolted the main bearings. Just have to remove it now.


Any tips would be great

I have never personally rebuilt a motor, but have 'helped' as a lad with my old man many times.

[Aaron IIA]

Support the engine (engine crane, chain block, tyre) and remove the front pulley. Hold the flywheel steady by using a large screwdriver engaged in the ring gear. Next, remove the flywheel. Hold it steady as before. Then remove the flywheel housing. Once done, bolt engine to an engine stand. This is now where I would remove the head. Turn upside down. I would now remove the sump and front timng cover. Remove pistons from the top of the block (now pointing downwards). Do not attempt to remove the pistons from the sump side of the block or you will get stuck. Protect the bore using small pieces of hose on the conrod bolts. Remove the timing chain. Remove main bearing caps, then lift out the crank. Remove rear main seal. Turn engine the correct way up, and remove cam followers, lift pump and oil filler tube. Remove cam.

I hope this helps a bit. Feel free to ask any more questions.

Aaron.

[Shonky]

Lots and lots of pics please!

I have to do this soonish and I need every bit of help and advice I can get.

Thanks for your post too Aaron. I will keep that in mind.

[olmate]

Mine was done just on 12 months ago and I am still kicking myself for not taking a heap of pictures.

Aaron does make it sound so easy but, like he has indicated, be methodical and ... ask questions as you go

Pictures in the thread for those of us who need to go thru it soon would be very much appreciated.

[Rangier Rover]

I've done a few but not many pics I am doing a S111 here soon.The things I've found to watch for are cam, Cam bearings, Cond of lifters (Very expensive), Bore ridge, piston clearance,
Front and rear seals on asy, Timing up cam shaft. I had a lot come here after rebuilds that have cam timing out They would not pull your hat off, chew fuel and can burn valves, main cause of over heating in new engines. Some workshop manuals make it complicated to time up The rest as usual. I have a good manual here if you need any info as we still run series Rovers in our fleet here Tony

[srowlandson]

Just got home, so a bit late to duck out the shed for photos.

Motor has had:

rocker cover removed, head unbolted
sump removed
big ends unbolted
dissy removed
fuel pump removed


will take all those photos (might even rebolt things back together for photos / video) and see how we go.

beprepared for a mammoth photoshoot thursday night

[Aaron IIA]

I last rebuilt an engine (2.25) at Christmas time. I took over an hour to time the cam shaft. There are six possibilites to place the cam drive gear onto the cam, all slightly different. As luck would have it, the position that timed the best was attempt number six. It was a time consuming job, but if the manufacturer gives you six versions, they want you to take the time and get the cam timing perfect.

Aaron.

[Aaron IIA]

The factory manuals are the best type to use. If you can get the two part version, they go into every step needed, starting at how to remove the bonnet. I usually buy these at swapmeets, but they come up on E-Bay quite frequently. You can still purchase the original factory manuals new.

Aaron.

[srowlandson]

Engine Apart

One of the lifters is damaged

[Aaron IIA]

I can't really see from that picture. It will need a better angle and more light.

Aaron.