Double Carden Joint

[101RRS]

As we know the UJs on the front prop shaft of a 101 come in for a hiding because of the excessive angle between the gearbox and front diff. This requires more regular changing of UJs (the army rated their life as 17,000km) and the acceptance of some vibration from the front end. As the front end of a 101 is unique I would have thought they would have designed the front axle housing so the diff was tilted up to ease the angles - but it is too late now.

While there seems to be failures of the double carden joints in later Discos (because of the A/C drain?), I have not really heard of it in the Series 3 Stage 1 which has a double carden joint on the front propshaft (gearbox end?).

Has anyone modified their front propshaft on a 101 to take a double carden joint and if so how does it go?

Thanks

Garry

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Garry

As I understand it - the DC joint on the D2 is a factory lubricated job and can not be lubricated in service. The DC joint on the stage 1 was able to be lubricated. The interesting thing was that I was in National Truck spares in Arncliffe the other day and they had a prop shaft with DC joint lying in front of an Isuzu truck being wrecked. Each of the spicer joints could be lubricated by a grease nipple on the end of one of the bearing caps and therefore not limiting the angulation of the DC joint for the regular type of grease nipple. It looks to be a very close size match for LR diff flanges. I nearly bought it to see if my friend with the D2 could use it.

Diana

[101 Ron]

I have looked into this and realised the front shaft would have to have a Double cardan joint each end because of the crazy angles on the front of the 101.
If you run a double joint each end you would make the shaft angle even steeper as the double joints make the working part of the shaft shorter and the double joints each end running very high angles would be a weak shaft.
The solution is to rotate the front diff housing and run a double cardan joint on one end of the shaft.
I have been told playing with the engine mounts and lifting the engine 25mm on one side helps.
The other solution is to run the vehicle as a part time system with free wheeling hubs and mods to the transfercase.
I am happy to replace the uni joints regularly as they are relativily cheap and the front shaft is easy to do.
I find on my 101 if speeds are kept to under 100 kph and you either throttle on or throttle off going down a hill and not float it is a non event.
Going above 100 kph is getting to the safe limits of braking and steering.