Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Forest Wire Kit

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Gold coast
    Posts
    3,130
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Forest Wire Kit

    where can i get one from???

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,510
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If you mean what I think you do, I doubt you will find a kit since they are illegal.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Gold Coast, QLD
    Posts
    1,464
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Go to a yachting shop and get them to make up the 2 stainless cables, then make your own brackets and attach it with small d-shackles on one end and stainless turnbuckles at the other (for proper tensioning), looks good and is real easy to take off as it's definitely illegal on the street
    Louis

    '99 'fender - it goes... (quite well actually!)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Eidsvold QLD
    Posts
    2,691
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Exhaust clamps with half a washer welded to them make a good removable mounting point on your bullbar and D-shackles and a small stainless turnbuckle mounted to your roofrack complete the picture.
    The Ugly Duckling-
    03 Defender Xtreme, now reduced by 30%.


    a master of invisibleness.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    my advise...


    Dont... first decent branch you hit with it will either rip it from the roof mount, or out of the panel at the front depending on where and how you anchor which end.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #6
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,704
    Total Downloaded
    1.63 MB
    I assume you mean a limb riser kit? You can make your own, they are easy to do..
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Posts
    56
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    my advise...


    Dont... first decent branch you hit with it will either rip it from the roof mount, or out of the panel at the front depending on where and how you anchor which end.
    Actually, if done properly they're more of an asset than not. I've had them for over 15 years and in all sorts of circumstances they've proven their worth. Including some heafty knocks and extremely overgrown tracks, where they make a huge difference. So much so that some mates who were giving me stick over having them were converted after seeing how well they worked!!

    But it is all in the mounting, as previously stated. Mine's got a permanently welded hoop on the bull bar end and a hole in the roof rack end. Clothes line wire will do the trick and all you need can be bought from good old Bunnings for not a lot of money, rather than a boating place that will charge you just to walk in the door!!

    Finally, they only go on when needed, but I have been known to travel home with them still attached!

    Regards,
    Greg

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    if your going to do them that way (as in bar to roof rack)

    goto a scaffolding mob and get some thin wall inch and a half tube along with the clamps to make it fit to your bar work and roof rack.

    leave the front clamp not quite tight and place a rubberised shield around it with the shield firmly anchored to the pipe.

    you can use the solid bar for more "other tasks" than a custom cut length of SWR and if you hit something hard enough then the pipe will bend and pull out of the front mount without ripping anything apart. It can then be convinced to be straight again and then re-asembled on the side of the road. it also pushes down on things instead of trying to pull them together when doing the job.

    IT also wont shatter the windshield when the bolt on the front shears and comes back at you,


    If you still want to go the wire rope way when you set it up purchase a section of poly pipe that slides over the turn buckle, some d lock pins that fit the turnbuckle hooks with the links they will be attaching to in place and that fit through the center of the bottle of the turnbuckle.

    Tie about a 2 foot length of heavy duty string to the loop of the wire the turnbuckle connects to and after drilling a dozen holes in the bit of poly pipe that thread that onto the wire.

    once youve got the wireup and tensioned, pass the bit of string through the bottle of the turnbuckle and then tie it off near the anchor point of the turnbuckle BUT not to the same bolt as the turnbuckle is anchored to. then slide the poly pipe down the wire over the turnbuckle and insert the D lock pins into the poly pipe so that the pins pass through the bottle and each hook...

    your turnbuckle can now never unwind and you can do away with the lock nuts and you have a catch string on the heaviest part of the system so that if it comes loose it cant go far. I also reccomend that the turnbuckles should be up near the roof and not at the bull bar.

    hope that helps.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by x-box View Post
    Go to a yachting shop and get them to make up the 2 stainless cables, then make your own brackets and attach it with small d-shackles on one end and stainless turnbuckles at the other (for proper tensioning), looks good and is real easy to take off as it's definitely illegal on the street
    Your spot on!!!

    And to add to this they're illegal on tracks too....Any track on a map...

    Vehicles on gazetted tracks/ roads must have compliance....


    If you do make some, please take them off before hitting a roadway...
    It's always those times we don't bother that will turn ugly!

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!