Tie Rod Identification

[shoom]

Need to replace some of the tie rods on my 2A (although with the amount of 3 stuff on it there could be some contention)

A fellow forum member has kindly offered to sell me some from his healthy stock of parts.

the only problem is identifying which rod end goes where.

we took some pictures of the several rod ends he has, and one of the two on the vehicle that need replacing (that's passenger side wheel, looking down from front of vehicle)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

All those tie rod ends can be used on an S1, S2 or S2a as they have the machined flat for the clamping.

You will find that the one in the centre of the pic is a RH (Right Hand Thread) end and the other two seem to be LH (Left Hand Thread). Each track rod/drag link/longitudinal steering rod have 1 LH and 1 RH end.

The important factor is that the rods are the correct length when fitted up and the wheels and levers aligned. Don't just rely on the fact that the PO had them correct.

If inexperienced, you should read the OEM workshop manual and align the steering as it specifies in the book.

Diana

[JDNSW]

Just check when you have it apart that the tube actually has the unthreaded section and hasn't been swapped for a late S3 one.

John

[JohnE]

and my cue for the ser 3 bits ,

here hot off the camera the end of the ser 3 steering rod( from the relay)
with the thread going all the way





have fun


john

[UncleHo]

G'day Shoom

As stated by Lotz-a-Landies they are suitable for S1,2,2a landrovers which have tie rods which have a machines inner end, the Tie Rod Ends for them have a unthreaded collar on them for the clamp to bite onto, the Series 3 Tie-Rods are machined for the full length so must have fully threaded Tie Rod Ends, there are 2 thread types, Left Hand Thread, and Right Hand Thread, each and every Tie Rod and steering Box to Relay Rod has 1 of each, the centre T/rod end in the pic looks like and original type and may even have the plug for a grease nipple, it is wise to use greasable tie rod ends for all exept for the one above the Relay as you cannot get in to grease it. Hope that is of some help

BTW. using fullthreaded Ser 3 T/R ends on 2/2a rods can lead to them coming free as they only grip on the thread peaks, and at road speed can be disasterous ( I am aware of fatalities caused by this happening)


cheers

[JDNSW]

......

BTW. using fullthreaded Ser 3 T/R ends on 2/2a rods can lead to them coming free as they only grip on the thread peaks, and at road speed can be disasterous ( I am aware of fatalities caused by this happening)


cheers

Same problem the other way round, with 2a ends in a S3 rod - although this is perhaps less likely as the clamping area would have to be expanded to get the end in far enough. As far as I can find out the change was not between S2a and S3, but during S3 production - which is pretty academic, as any S2/2a/3 is likely to have either type, so the only way to be sure is to check on the actual vehicle.

John

[Bigbjorn]

If still original, the tie rod threads should be 11/16" x 16 tpi UNS LH & RH. I can supply taps and dies for these. Also 11/16 x 18 & 11/16 x 20 in case someone has changed them for more common and cheaper rod ends.