I hope -1.1 doesn't mean it was set with toe in. If so, they got it WRONG. It should have toe OUT.
As for the rear spec, maybe something is bent.
Had the wheel alignment on my series 1 disco adjusted it today. Boy did it need it.
Front was +2.3mm & +30.2mm. After -1.1 on both sides. I guess that happens when you change track rods.
Anyway the interesting thins was the rear toe+2.1 and -8.1.
Now I am sure it would be better than this when new.... wouldn't it?
So would would cause it to have such a big discrepancy. Bent trailing arm, bent chassis??? Rear camber if it matters is -1.8 and -0.48
I hope -1.1 doesn't mean it was set with toe in. If so, they got it WRONG. It should have toe OUT.
As for the rear spec, maybe something is bent.
Rear toe in (and camber) should be zero. The only way the toe in at the rear can be anything else except this or equal and opposite is either a bent axle housing, loose wheel bearings - or bent wheel(s) or bulging tyres, assuming the measurement is off the tyres.
The equal/opposite component, which you have in part, could be "Bent trailing arm, bent chassis", but is far more likely to be one or more of the bushes locating the rear axle at each end of the lower links (trailing arms) or the A-frame bushes or ball joint. Any departure from zero on the camber at the rear will most likely be a bent axle housing or loose wheel bearings, if it is not from the wheels and tyres.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Hmm, nearly 2* negative camber on the rear ?
Mate, that would stick out like the dogs proverbial's, 2* is a bucket load of camber. Even 1/2 a degree (0.48*) is noticeable to the naked eye when looking from the rear.
The rear ends can sport a little toe in or out from what I've measured, I think it comes from when they've come out of the jig, and as the boys above have mentioned, any play at all in the bearings will show up as a toe and camber measurement. It's the nature of full floating bearing hubs.
Having said that, a measurement of toe in one side and out the other points to either a bent lower trailing arm, bent outrigger, bent chassis or flogged bushes.
Did they measure the wheelbase either side from the centreline of each hub ? This can point to bent arms.
I'd either take it back, take it somewhere else, or if you feel confident, set up a parallel string line right around the car at hub centreline height and measure yourself. It isn't that hard, just takes time and you just have to check and re-check and with a good steel rule and fine string you can get under 0.5mm accuracy on toe measurements, or as accurate as the wheels and tyres are.
For accuracy, set the string line up off the chassis centreline. This may take some time and measuring but it will give you very accurate measurements.
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