Lifting the body

[gunsports]

I'm now at the stage where all the parts are stripped off my 2.25D 109 IIa in preparation for the repair/rebuild phase to commence. I saw on Terry-anne's site a thread where the body was lifted by changing the spring position: instead of the springs fixed to the bottom of the axle, it is moved to a top axle fixing point. This mod. is usually accompanied with extending the shock absorber mounting points at the top and fitting longer reach shocks (mine are shot anyway). I've also seen one such a raised rover over here and it looks very good.

However, there is some concern that this modification will decrease the center of gravity, which in turn will affect the tilt angle at which the vehicle will remain safe. Then there is also the question (my thoughts) of how this will affect the prop shaft angles and if this will cause damage.

Anyone has any experience with such a modification? How will this affect drive quality and vehicle stability? Any advice?

[JDNSW]

This has been discussed previously here and a search should find the discussion. Apart from the point you raise about stability, there are serious concerns about not only the prop shaft angles but the steering linkage and the spring travel.

The front prop shaft will foul the cross member even with a lift of 50mm or thereabouts as on the One Ton and Australian military ones which have modified spring anchorage points and extended shackles. The U-joints on the front shaft and the rear one on an 88 will also run into problems if you raise it much more than this.

Again, raising it much more than the above figure means the angle of the drag link will get too large, and will need some sort of a work round. If the lift is reduced to less than the spring thickness plus axle housing diameter, which is what you get by just putting the same spring on top of the axle, by reducing the spring camber, you soon get into restricted spring deflection - the upward travel of the axle is limited by the fact that the spring is now between it and the chassis.

Not to say these points cannot all be worked round, but it would be a very big undertaking and the few on this forum who have tried it seem to be less than happy with the results.

John

[Slunnie]

Ive done it and ended up going sprung under again.

If you do, then I would look to using Hilux or Landcruiser axles for width, and whats known as a X-over or a high-steer steering setup with a toyota steering box. In the front diff I would also highly recommend using a Hipinion diff to reduce the propshaft angle and you will need to notch the chassis x-member for tailshaft clearance. Brakes etc to suit also. That type of lift requires big tyres and you'll get about 6-7" and then 37" tyres will give you another 3" - 9" combined! I'm now sprung under again, will fit 2-3" lift springs with the 37's which will give 5-6" lift and be much more stable and usable. The spring over setup will give you a lot more flex than a spring under setup.

[gunsports]

Me and my bright ideas! Ok, I'm convinced; Rover stays the same height. No, will not fit any To**t* parts to my Landie. Man has his pride!

[Slunnie]

Me and my bright ideas! Ok, I'm convinced; Rover stays the same height. No, will not fit any To**t* parts to my Landie. Man has his pride!

I'm sure you could do it with Rover parts.... but with tyres that suit a spring over (ie greater than 35") they you will be needing lots of rover parts.

[seriesly]

had a series3 where the prev owner has sprung over the rear only

the rear was a sals with the mounts changed (also tilted up)

front was standard with the front spring mounts extended 6 inches

the steering arm was bolted to the top of the swivel

was very high to get into with 35's

handled ok though,was just too high