How to improve the Feebie1

[SuperMono]

Not a question or an example, just an idea I have thought about for a while.

Step 1: Source a later model Freebie1 Diesel auto.
Step 2: Lift the suspension by say 40mm (not the 50 I did).
Step 3: Go up in wheel/tyre size.
Step 4: Fit the IRD unit out of a V6.

I haven't bothered measuring or calculating, just making observations and thinking.

The Diesel auto is the best bet for a Freebie1 that sees any off road work.

More ground clearance is required, but a 50mm suspension lift is in my experience (well I have done it) too much and has compounding negative impact on some mechanical aspects.

So enter the bigger wheel/tyre combo, but this impacts on gearing.

So enter the V6 IRD and the reduction in gearing back to a sensible level.

Might actually end up too low in gearing for serious highway work, but seeing I don't really do that I wouldn't really care.


?

[101RRS]

Isn't the IRD in the V6 the same as the rest?

The auto will cover for the bigger wheels.

The vehicle you describe is a FL1 TD4 Auto

The other mod is to fit a disco CDL into a steel tube and replace the VC.

Garry

[dmdigital]

How to improve the Feebie1


... trade it in on a Defender












Sorry, could help that! It was just begging for a reply. Actually I like the Freebie and nearly bought one when they first came out.

[SuperMono]

Isn't the IRD in the V6 the same as the rest?

No the reduction ratio is different, otherwise the TD4 would have a cruising speed on the highway of about 60kph.

How to improve the Feebie1


... trade it in on a Defender

I expected at least 6 response like that

I like my compromise in a smaller, softer package than a Defender.

[101RRS]

No the reduction ratio is different, otherwise the TD4 would have a cruising speed on the highway of about 60kph.

I have an IRD out of a TD4 in my 98 XEDI and as a result I cruise at a much higher speed for same revs. 3000rpm gives 123kph where the original XEDI IRD was giving just over 100kph at 3000rpm - the downside is slow speed offroad is a bit of a pain.

Oh and as far as that other comment goes - why would you want to drive a dinosaur like a Defender on the road , when you can drive a Freelander .

Garry

[Sprint]

I like my compromise in a smaller, softer package.

well at least we know you're not female!

[samuelclarke]

How to improve the Feebie1


... trade it in on a Defender

Very true!!

Our family car is a Freelander XEDI - nice car and best of it's class without a doubt. But we've had and still having problems with it. I now drive a Defender and wouldn't drive anything else...honest. The Freelander is mainly my mum's vehicle now, but she is wanting to sell it and get a Defender - and she's in her 60's!

Anyways, not wanting to hijack the thread...and back on topic if I was setting up a Freelander (FL) for off road:

40mm lift
Full underbody protection - even with the lift it's too low
BFG's in 215/75/R15 - have seen these on a FL and they work well
Good recovery points - face it you're going to need them in a FL!
Tow hitch mounted winch - as above...

Really though in my experience in driving the Freelander off road, and I've done a fair bit, if you have the skill you can get through a lot - what really lets it down is no low range...hence for this and a host of other reasons I have a Defender.

[Mockery]

So the Td4 has a ratio of 1.467 : 1,
and the V6 has a ratio of 1.359 : 1.

that's a 7.95% increase in drive ratio...

Now stock diameter on 225/55R17 comes to about 680mm (26.7in).
Increase that by the percentage gives 733mm (28.8in), which happens to be the exact (theoretical) diameter of 235/75R15.
I have this size installed at the moment, I think it's about as big as you can go before hitting interference issues at full lock. I get a very slight rub where the inside front edge meets the splashguards.

I'd like to look at getting rims with less offset so wider or taller tyres could be used. I reckon there's about an inch left before they stick out from under the flares.
Also, 15in. tyres seem to only come in 6ply, and a 16in. rim opens up options for stronger tyres.


I'm not exactly an expert off-roader yet, but I've done a bit in my Td4 and I have to say it tends to run into clearance issues long before torque or gearing becomes a problem. The torque converter effect of the Auto makes it bloody easy.
So, I would say find *some* way to get even bigger tyres on for more lift, and maybe then the V6 IRD might become necessary.

@SuperMono: is it mainly the CV stress, or exhaust interference, or something else which makes you recommend not going the full 50mm?

[SuperMono]

@SuperMono: is it mainly the CV stress, or exhaust interference, or something else which makes you recommend not going the full 50mm?

Read the thread on the Bearmach Lift I fitted, yes there is various clearance issues and yes the CVs seem to be pushing the limit.
40mm and 20mm tyre diameter would give the same lift with less issues (although I think the steering arms and anti-roll bar would still foul, just not by as much) but you would suffer a little on gearing.

[Mockery]

Been thinking a bit more about the IRD thing...

Bearing in mind the ratios at this page:
Freelander - Intermediate Reduction Drive (IRD) - Land Rover
Freelander - Manual Gearbox - Jatco - Land Rover
Wondering where that ratio of 1.467 or 1.359 fits in the pic quoted below.
Where they say 'final drive', is that the rear diff ratio, or the last thing out of the gearbox?

Would you need to swap anything else to keep the front & rear wheels in sync?
Is the fitment likely to just be a straight bolt-up?

And then the other thing, about Disco Centre Diff Locking. Is there any point when the VCU is pretty much an automatic CDL? Seems like an unnecessary effort, for something you can only engage when you're sure that binding won't be a problem, i.e. loose-ish surface.
Maybe if you were (theoretically) going to have a locking rear diff as well?