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Thread: 101 Transfercase

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
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    101 Transfercase

    After talking to Garrycol about his transfercase and the fact he was able to adjust one of the transfercase gearshift rods to correct a problem he had with his cable gearshift ,I thought I would look at mine today.
    My problem was it was difficult to shift back into high range after being in low range.
    The transfercase would jump back out shortly after.
    The problem was getting worse with it not wanting to stay in high range at all.
    I have previously asked on the forums about this a told it was most likely end float on the gears.
    A quick inspection of the transfercase with the top plate off showed the transfercase to be in perfect condition except for some wear on the high range drive dogs and wear marks showing it was not fully engaging on the dogs.
    Two forks are used for the gearshift, one for low range(not adjustable)
    and the other for high range.(adjustable via clamping bolt)
    Loosen off the clamping bolt on the fork and move it towards the front of the truck and the other fork much as possible and tighten.
    Problem solved.
    On the though transfercase gearshift shaft another clamping bolt tightens a arm on the gearshift shaft so the position of the external lever for the gearshift cable can be positioned in the best possible place.(this is what garrycol done)
    All this has shown me a few things.
    The cable gear shift on the 101 transfercase has alot of leverage on the internal gearshift selector forks which can bend in service with a heavy handed driver and bad cables which will give little feel.
    ( all other landrovers which I know of ,which use this transfercase have short stubbie levers with no great leverage on the gearshift.)
    Use low range on all hard pulls as the high/low drive dogs are a bit small for the job and low range more that halves the load on these items and the gearbox.(And uses the low range dogs more as the high range ones get most of the wear.)
    Luckily on a 101 the above is a very easy job because of the excellent top of transfercase access.
    Ron

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
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    18,616
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    When I posted the tfr adjustment topic on the brit site I was surprised that there was no response other than your PM. The repair manual is clear though and it was easy to do. I would have thought it would have been easier at the design stage to adjust the lever external to the transfer case - but then it is a brit design so was designed to make things as hard and illogical as possible.

    There is noting worse than that loud clunk when the tfr case slips out of gear into neutral - I always think I have done some damage.

    Glad to hear it is all working OK.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Greater Sydney Area
    Posts
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    Thankyou

    Thanks for the post Gary and Ron,

    'Thirsty Kirsty' seem to jump back out a fair bit and I thought it was just the cable needing adjustment. I have a major service and brake overhaul coming up as soon as I have finished moving house so I will add the transfer case cables and levers to the ever growing list.

    I had her out bush yesterday recovering parts off a General Grant Tank for the local museum. All good cross axle work and poking through well wooded ground with no formed roads.

    Last time I was in that location I was in my old Series 3 which struggled a couple of times.

    Of course the 101 simply sailed through with not a hint of bother or loss of traction almost boring in fact.

    Gotta love that!!!

    Cheers

    Phill

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