Replacement fuel injection pump is alive !

[Junosi]

Hi all, thought I'd give an update to my fuel injection pump woes. A brief history would be that I bought a non running 1999 Freelander XEdi with a variety of issues - all the usual Flandy issues plus a few more for good measure.

Anyways after a bit of discussion on these forums and a ton of google research I decided my pump was 'pining for the fjords' (dead) and wanted to replace it. So I bought a low km's replacement pump from Wales for £60 and another £40 for postage - basically $200 aussy to my door, much cheaper than anything I could find locally. The pump I bought was a 0 460 414 992 L 580 - which is an 11mm pump whereas my old pump was a 10mm pump - bigger is better is my thought. It came off a Rover 200 I believe.

First thing I noticed when taking off my old pump from the Flandy was that the pump timing pin wouldn't go in. I'd pinned the flywheel and the cam timing mark was lined up so the pump pulley should be in the right spot to be pinned - but it was miles out. By miles out I mean about 120 degrees out ... like it was never going to run like that and I'd be lucky to get away with no engine damage if it did. After much head scratching and self doubt as to what I'd done wrong I decided to proceed as if I hadn't seen my pump being out 120 degrees. (In hindsight I suspect that a previous owner has had the pump off, tested it and found out that it was a norwegian blue and just slapped it back on willy nilly in a weird position - can't see how else it got like that)

The new replacement pump hadn't been locked before it was removed so after a little research I turned up a method of resetting them to their 'timed' position and locked it ready to install. Was fairly easy to put the new one in place. The pump pulley also now lined up with the hole correctly so I could pin that now too.

Connected everything back up - hand cranked it a few revolutions to see if all the marks still lined up and then primed the pump full of diesel with the primer bulb.

The moment of truth .... I let the glowplug light go out and turned the ignition - after about 3 seconds of cranking it fired right up ! It is idling fine and seems to rev up as it should - no smoke cloud out the back either. Haven't taken it for a drive yet as there's a number of other things I want to do first but its all looking good so far.

So long story short is - replacement ebay pumps do work even if they're not originally from a Freelander. I can't tell you if going to 11mm was a good plan from a 10mm or not as I've never seen a 10mm running - in theory it provides more fuel which can equal more power - particularly if I also up my boost pressure a bit (via wastegate)

Anyways, I'm very happy with the results - project Flandy is proceeding nicely once more

Clark

[101RRS]

Clark - that is great news - the only issue I can see is that the ECU is geared to adjust the pump in response to the various sensors. Now if the fuel pressure is the same in the two pumps for given settings then the fact on is 10mm and the other is 11 mm should not make any difference as the injectors respond to pressure - higher pressure equates to higher fuel flow for a given time. I suspect there will be differences but if it is enough to make a difference - who knows until you drive it. If you were in the UK you can just get the ECU remapped to take all the changes into account - not sure about here in Australia but a Bosch rather than Landrover expert should be able to tell you. It is all Bosch stuff.

Cheers

Garry

[Junosi]

Good point Garry, although with slightly more volume being provided by the pump I'm wondering if the line pressure will be up a bit then making the injectors squirt a bit sooner and longer than they used to - effectively advancing the timing a little.

As an aside, I've just been running the engine up to temp so I can give it an oil change. It seemed to be hunting after a smooth idle and the engine light came on at 2000rpm. Checked all the plugs, no light at idle. After it had warmed up I took the revs up to redline slowly - never seen so much smoke Filled the garage and most of my neighbours yards. Let it return to idle and it seems to idle perfectly smooth now and on a return to redline almost no smoke this time - so thinking it just needed a bit of a blast out to clear itself out. Engine light has disappeared, but its got me cautious. No telling how long this engine has been sitting around for or the rep pump for that matter.

I'm planning on removing the EGR in the future. Is there anything wrong with removing the (water) plumbing to it now ? I'm thinking it might overheat and stick - but I've removed the vacuum line already so if it does stick it should stick shut if anything.

Clark

[101RRS]

Given what you have been through with this - I wouldn't go looking for more issues. The ECU should adjust things to account for variations so if it doesn't have a problem then I wouldn't bother. I would get the codes cleared at the earliest chance so that if there are issues in the future at least those isses will be recorded and not confused with other codes already there.

I would suspect that to take into account any extra fuel volume the ECU will just throttle back the fuel pump until the correct amount of fuel is provided in accordance with what the other sensors are telling the ECU.

Run it and see what happens - the ECU will make the required adjustments (we hope).

Garry

[Matplat]

The ECU will adjust the amount of fuel injected into the chamber according to the lamda sensor in the exhaust. The lamda sensor analyses the exhaust gases (I forget exactly how) and gives the ECU a signal indicating the current air/fuel ratio. The ECU then adjusts fuel input (by how long the injectors are open) according to the engine map programmed into it.

[101RRS]

The L series diesel does not have an exhaust sensor (lamda) and uses other systems to adjust the required level of fuel. The L series is not a common rail diesel. It is an old style mechanical diesel with the ECU just turning the injection pump up and down as required.

Clark - the Rave indicates any extra fuel that is supplied to the injectors is simply sent back to the tank - so if the pump you have does supply more than needed it should just go back to the tank.

Garry

[Junosi]

ah excellent - that's pretty much what I wanted to hear. Don't really want a smoky flandy.

Decided to take your advice and leave well enough alone for now - egr gets to live another day. I am going to go ahead and change all the belts though, did the FIP one already so going to do the other end and tackle the main timing belt - should do the alternator one (whatever you call that one) too while I'm in the area I suppose. Not knowing the cars history (I can guess it was a traumatic history) its cheap insurance.

Forgot to mention I replaced the IRD a few weeks back too - managed to get a 1.8 gearbox with attached IRD for $400 from a low k's 2000 model here in Melb - unsure if that means its the 'old' bad ratio IRD or the 'good' new one - either way the IRD is in perfect condition at this point. Gearbox is going back on fleabay as a 1.8 box isn't much good to me. Just need to source a decent VCU now - it'll be front drive only until then.

Clark

[Matplat]

You will want to search this one to be sure, but I was reading another post somewhere on here the other day, talking about the different gear ratios in the IRD depending on the engine, i.e. I am not sure you will definitely be able to do a straight swop between your diesel on and the 1.8 one. It would be pretty annoying to put it all back together and have it break down again 5 minutes down the road....

Hmmm I just read your post again and realised you ave already done it! I guess the ratios on those two are the same!

[Junosi]

Yep looked into that thorougly before I got myself a new IRD. As far as I know there's only 3 IRD types - the old one (bad), the new one (good) and the V6 one - although there might be two types of V6 IRD too I'm not sure as they don't concern me.

They swapped from the old one with bad ratios some time around 2000 I think - they were fitted to both the 1.8's and the diesels. It was the gearboxes that were different between the diesel and petrol - 1.8 petrol ones are 4.2 final ratio whereas L series are 3.647 I think - both using PG1 gearboxes.

[101RRS]

Matplat is correct that the overall ratio is lower in the 1.8 than the diesel but if I understand things (and it is hard to get a straight answer) it is achieved as Clark has indicated - in the gearbox not the IRD.

The IRDs changed in 2000 so it will not be clear whether you have the newer one until you drive it. If you haven't actually put the IRD you can check it - the rear drive should turn more per input when compared to the old one - ie the old one is lower geared. If I remember correctly the standard XEDI does about 100kph per 3000 rpm - my XEDI does have the newer IRD in and does about 120kph per 3000 rpm - is good on the highway but raises the overall gearing offroad - I am used to the smell of burning clutch in the morning.

I am told the EGR is a point of failure (not happened to me) so if they are not expensive it might be worth replacing it - but then - get the thing running and driving and then work through the things that need fixing.

There was a new VC on ebay for $1200 but it has gone now.

I take it that the IRD and gearbox on ebay now is yours - watching with interest - one bid so far - better than nothing.

Garry