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Thread: Hybrid series Landrover

  1. #1
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    Hybrid series Landrover

    I cant remember where I saw it but I remember reading an artical about a military series landrover which had an electric motor driving through the PTO on the TC so it could run in a type of stealth mode.

    I know Ive seen it some where but has anyone else heard of it and would it be possible to build a system to say add extra power for say over taking in the same way?

    Kind of like the KERS system on the F1's.

  2. #2
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    Ive been messing with the concepts for that for ages.....

    should work and work nicely but for the fact that you have to carry around a large electric motor and the batteries to drive it. I was always going to do it the other way around

    big electric motor with regernative braking where the 2.25 used to sit and a small (read sub 1l) turbo diesel hooked up to the Rear PTO via a torque converter.

    you could kick the diesel in for additional power on over take or if stationary kick the tcase to neutral and use the regen ability to charge the batteries.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  3. #3
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    If you had a big electric motor you wouldn't need more power. The small motor could be put anywhere for purely recharging.
    I like the idea of a electric booster motor. It could run of a switch on the floor under the accelerator. Flat to the floor gives both motors. No need for controllers on the electric motor that way because when you want it on you want full power. I wonder what size motor would be needed to get a reasonable boost.

  4. #4
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    we sure aint talking windshield wiper motors.

    youd want to be looking at about the 10hp minimum range for it to be effective (and then how many batteries do you need to drive that and the controller as well)

    and as for the "on off" switch under the accelerator yovue seen your startermotor power cables right, and those things are good for 2hp, tops, for short periods.

    then you've got the problem of charging the batteries after youve given it everything to get past a vehicle.

    Im not saying it cant be done it just may not be as simple as it seems.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #5
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    "startermotor power cables right, and those things are good for 2hp, tops, for short periods."

    at 12V

    at 120V they will be ok for the same durations at 20hp.

    High current is your enemy, not high power.

  6. #6
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    my bad, I worded that poorly....

    I ment to include both the motor AND the powercables...

    the full wordy version that I badly edited prior to posting made mention of both the size of the motor and the cables....

    Cables needing to carry the amps and the size of the motor, a landy starter motor (specifically the series diesel) is good for about 2hp.

    the biggest problem I see with it is the mass of the storage medium required for it to make any meaning full difference at the end of the day.

    with the money youd spend on that many batteries and the controller to handle it I reckon you could just about go a nos kit which would give you the same effect..

    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #7
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    oic

    you had the whole scrapheap challenge thing happening

  8. #8
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    yep, my editing skills are suckfull, especially when theres blondage on tv...
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
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    Granted that the KERS system is probably worth a mill or so for each car it's on, I thought a bank of batteries from something like a golf buggy or electric fork lift and the motor and controller the same would make for a fairly economical set up.

    The 36v or 48v system may be a bit of a problem off a standard alternator but that could be rectified by running the drive motor off the PTO as a generator (being a series wound motor it should be possible) to top up the batteries.

    The trick would be to have it kick into charge mode on coast or braking so you were not using extra fuel to rechageg the system.

    If you were running it as a boost system you wouldnt need anywhere near as much storage as if you were using the electric motor as the main engine.

    It may not over come the weight but is an interesting thought all the same.

    Still, any one else heard of the ex military one, I think it was in a museum in the UK???

  10. #10
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    lead acid batteries are a nice "cheap" solution, but cost in terms of weight

    NiMH are the most common cost/weight choice but LiFePO4 cells are just comming of age.

    check out A123systems gear and their KillaCycle drag bike KillaCycle - World’s Quickest Electric Motorcycle

    Grrrrrrrruunt

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