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Thread: Window lock

  1. #1
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    Window lock

    I have fitted two series two sliding window locks to the doors of my 101.
    They pop riveted straight on and stop the glass sliding from the closed position to the open position under hard braking .........and in the past I have broken a window glass though this happening during a emergency stop.
    The other problem is to stop the glass sliding close going up steep bush tracks in summer and reducing much needed cool air coming to the cabin.
    I in the past have tighten up the sliding glass window tracks a bit to increase friction, but is not really the answer.
    The locks I have just fitted can lock the sliding glass open too, but I need to drill a 1/4 hole through the sliding glass to do this .
    What is the best way to get a 1/4 hole in.a existing piece of safety glass ?
    The glass is not too hard to remove if required.


    Regards Ron

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    I bought some of them to put on mine - but on reflection I will put in the latches out of a series three. Work as well but do not stick out as much.

    Garry
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    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
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    I am told the series three items require a lot of extra work to fit as you have to cut away the steel in the door top to fit the latch and they are plastic.
    I think the series two items are simple and longer lasting.
    At the top of the door they are not a problem.
    I could fit another pair at the bottom edge of the window to hold the glass open, but yes they will get in the way as the drivers elbow will come back and hit the lock during turning.
    That why I am looking to cut a hole in the glass and use the lock I have just fitted.
    I could cut the top corner out of the glass by using a diamond flake hacksaw file (blade) I have,,,,,,,,,but it will look bad and give a much bigger hole than I wanted in the glass.

  4. #4
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    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    You can get drills intended for cutting glass or an ordinary but very sharp drill will work, and it is fairly easy provided you do it slowly and with plenty of lubrication (kerosine). But I would be very wary of doing it to toughened glass!

    You might have a talk to a place that does custom glass, but I have an idea that the normal practice is to do the drilling before toughening the pane of glass.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
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  5. #5
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    I talked to a glass friend of mine......in fact the bloke who made the last replacement sliding side window glass for me.
    The glass is toughened safety glass and is designed to crumble into little bits if the surface is destroyed in any way due to stresses placed into the glass surface.
    This means the glass cannot be drilled.
    He showed me a special 1/4 diamond glass drill for standard glass which is of a hollow design.
    The hole must be drilled before the toughening process.
    His cost to get both side glass remade with the hole I need would be over 120 dollars at his cost for the pair.
    He did come up with a good idea............make the sliding glass from perspex as it is cheaper and I can do it my self.( I don't want to disturb the glass channels again too)
    I just like the idea of glass as it doesn't scratch.
    The other idea was to glue a piece of glass on the existing glass with special glass glue and let the lock work on that.
    I will have to look at the whole thing again.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    I bought some of them to put on mine - but on reflection I will put in the latches out of a series three. Work as well but do not stick out as much.

    Garry
    Garry

    The series 3 type are a nightmare - you have to drill a hole in the bottom of the track, as well as the channel and inside of the bottom door frame. This allows water into the unpainted door frame and rusts them out and during rain the water drips out onto your knee.

    Very poor design all round.

    The parentie design are much better although they are designed into the frame and are not available for the 101.

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    Garry

    This allows water into the unpainted door frame and rusts them out and during rain the water drips out onto your knee.

    Diana
    Haha - too late - the doors are already rusted out (just bogged until I get replacements) and water already fills the footwells.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

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    If you want to glue 2 pieces of glass together just use clear sillicon. You won't ever get them apart again with out breaking something. Perhaps you could get a thin piece of glass with a hole in it and glue it on so that it is just like a notch for the pin to catch in. That is if there is enough space under the pin to start with.
    84' 120" ute - 3.9 isuzu.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101 Ron View Post
    .
    They pop riveted straight on and stop the glass sliding from the closed position to the open position under hard braking .........a
    The other problem is to stop the glass sliding close going up steep bush tracks
    i to drill a 1/4 hole through the sliding glass to do this .
    What is the best way to get a 1/4 hole in.a existing piece of safety glass ?
    The glass is not too hard to remove if required.


    Regards Ron
    An another less eloquent solution than drilling holes in the sliding glass would be to put two latches on each window - one to keep the window open and one to keep it closed.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

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