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Thread: Snatching from front Pintle Hook

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
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    Snatching from front Pintle Hook

    We all know that snatching from a tow ball is a "no no" but what about a mil spec pintle hook.

    If this is also a "no no", what are people using for "rated" recovery points on the front of a 101. The standard tow rings on the front bumper would probably be OK with a bridle between them but they are not rated and are "tow rings".

    Even using the pintle hook for recovery, I have seen pics where the front bumper has been bent by the force of a recovery. The Poms suggest using the front spring hangers but I have reservations on this as well.

    So what are people using on their 101s when they fail to proceed and need a snatch?

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
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    For my 101 I am going to make a renforcing plate for the front pintle.
    My bull bar is super strong and picks up front the towing eye hole too.
    My plate is going to run from towing eye hole to towing eye hole side to side behind the front original bumper/ cross member and strenghten the bolts and etc where the front pintle is.
    I have snatched rearwards using the front pintle with out trouble.
    After seeing how the front pintle is set up I would be careful about doing it again until strenghtened.
    As far as I am concerned there is nothing wrong with snatching on the diff or front hangers of a 101.
    When I find time I will take pics of how I strenghten the front pintle.
    It all comes back to the army light weight air transportable spec which means weight had to be saved some where.[/I]

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    S.W. Sydney
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    Nowt wrong with snatching from a NATO pintle on the rear as Ron says if used on the front bar it would need to be plated to spred the shock load over more of the bar but the NATO hook would be fine

    in saying that make sure the pintle is in good condition they have a tendancy to wear in the top hinge pin which allows the top jaw to open slightly the fix is to run a few welds on the bottom jaw and grind flat so theres no play between the two


    T

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101 Ron View Post
    For my 101 I am going to make a renforcing plate for the front pintle.
    My bull bar is super strong and picks up front the towing eye hole too.
    My plate is going to run from towing eye hole to towing eye hole side to side behind the front original bumper/ cross member and strenghten the bolts and etc where the front pintle is.
    I have snatched rearwards using the front pintle with out trouble.
    After seeing how the front pintle is set up I would be careful about doing it again until strengthened.
    As far as I am concerned there is nothing wrong with snatching on the diff or front hangers of a 101.
    When I find time I will take pics of how I strenghten the front pintle.
    It all comes back to the army light weight air transportable spec which means weight had to be saved some where.[/I]
    I was thinking along the same lines but I have concerns how well the front bar actually bolts onto the chassis. I am thinking the plate you are talking about also needs to extend back and be bolted to the chassis but this will need holes to be drilled and crush tubes inserted.

    I guess the front pintle hook was only designed to take the weight of a gun when being slowly manoeuvred into position.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

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