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Thread: Oil drive on Scorcher and Standard Dizzy

  1. #1
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    Oil drive on Scorcher and Standard Dizzy

    I bought a Scorcher dizzy for my 1995 3.9 V8 Disco last week.My problem is i used the bottom bit from a 3.5 v8 dizzy to fit onto the Scorcher one.Now that they are out i can see that they are both different at the oil drive part.
    See pic below.
    Am i able to disconnect the bottom bit from the Scorcher so it is the same as the old 3.9 one? Hope this makes sense.I have attached the pics so you can see what i mean.And how do i take the bottom bit off?




  2. #2
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    Does anyone know how to pop the bottom part of the dizzy off? The very last bit has a rod or something through it.Does it pop off some how or do i have to bang it out with a hammer and screwdriver? Any help would be great.I need to get this going again.
    Cheers
    Chris

  3. #3
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    You need to carefully punch out the pins holding the drive gear on. When I did this Scorcher said to be careful as they are easily damaged.

    Ian

    Dont use a screwdriver. A punch slightly smaller than the roll pin would be ideal.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for that.I will have to get a punch thing from Bunnings tomorrow
    I only have to do the bottom one.Is that right?

  5. #5
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    I cant see from the picture what is holding on the oil pump drive on your old one. Perhaps it is one piece from the look of it. If that is the case I would knock out the top pin and swap the complete drive to the Scorcher.
    Someone else with better knoledge of of the differences in the oil pump could probably answer better.

    Ian

  6. #6
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    Does anyone else have some info on what i might need to do?

  7. #7
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    1995 D1 with the serp belt timing case drives the oil pump from the crank, so I you can just leave it on. It shouldn't touch anything. If you change it, MAKE SURE that it goes on the same way as the other one, NOT 180degrees out. IT IS possible to do this look at where the rolled pin goes through the drive, on one side it comes out in line with a tooth, the other side a groove. If you fit it the other way in relation to the position of the rotor button, you will be unable to move the dizzy body enough to time it correctly. I have had this problem.

    Otherwise, straightforward, and a pin punch is your friend. Support the drive on a block of wood as the teeth will chip easily.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  8. #8
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    This won't help you ,but I've got a scorcher and I took the old Dizzy in to them when i picked it up and they fitted my existing oil drive it on the spot in about 2mins, I didn't see what they did
    One thing though you'll notice the difference with the scorcher installed.
    The scorcher dizzy will sit higher too, so your top rad hose will sit and rest on the plug leads on the cap.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for you info.So im right to just place it in there how it is? I was going to try this but wasnt to sure.And i didnt want to stuff anything up
    Cheers
    Chris

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by It'sNotWorthComplaining! View Post
    This won't help you ,but I've got a scorcher and I took the old Dizzy in to them when i picked it up and they fitted it on the spot in about 2mins, I didn't see what they did
    One thing though you'll notice the difference with the scorcher installed.
    I was going to bring it back but they arent open on the weekend.And i need to get it running by tomorrow.So im guessing you have one on your car as well.I heard good things about them.Thats why i bought one.Anything has to be better then the OE one.

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