un natural wobble

[Sith]

ok after gettin my wheel bearings done .... and re tightening the front ones i am getting a nasty full car wobble when i hit train tracks or bumps in the road like this ...

I have had Richard do all the bushes in the front end
new wheel bearings all round
new uni joints ...
except the double cardon one

i can push / pull the bull bar side to side with no clunks or knocks
same with the rear


so really i am at a loss as to what to look for so asking for your help here guys

thanks in advance

Brad

[dullbird]

swivels

[Grockle]

swivels

I agree Lou.

[Sith]

ok so how do i fix these ???

[Grockle]

ok so how do i fix these ???

They are adjusted by shims you'll also need spring a loaded scale to set the resistance,someone on here will explain it better,but thats the jist of it.

[JDNSW]

Swivels.

Raise the front and put on stands. Starting at the RH side, disconnect the tie rod from the arm on the swivel housing. See how easy it is to turn the swivel housing. If it is dead easy. if it just flops over, or if there is any free play at all, the swivels need adjusting at the very least.

The recommended load is with the seal removed, and varies a bit with the model, but is not particularly critical. Try setting it at about 15-20lbs on the arm with the seal in place. Most 90/110/Defender have a taper roller bearing at the bottom and a "Railko" bush at the top. This is adjusted by adding or removing shims under the top swivel shaft, which is held by four bolts on the top. Put a jack under the bottom before removing this or you are likely to get oil everywhere. Remove the stack of shims and replace the shaft without any, tightening it evenly until the load is correct. Make up a stack of shims that will fit in the gap tightly, remove the shaft and reassemble with this stack of shims. Recheck the load.

If the swivel shaft is rusted or worn out of round, or if there is, when you adjust the preload, a reduced resistance for a short amount round dead ahead (due to notches worn in the roller bearing race) you need to replace components, although the adjusted preload may make it driveable until you can do this.


In this case you are likely to have to replace the roller bearing, railko bush, swivel shaft and seal plus gaskets. Possible other things you may find while apart are the CV joint and the wheel bearings and hub seal. You need a manual for this job.

John

[Sith]

buggar !

just took it for a quick lap down to my mum's place ...

at 70-80 km per hour she shakes so violently only knocking it out of gear and braking to a stop will stop it shuddering .
Then if i hit a bump it starts all over again ...
I had this happen to the point of having to stop completely 4 times on the way home aand maybe 3 times enroute . I must say there is no vibrations thru the brakes ... so i dunno ... def not like when the wheel bearings went before ...

The whole car shudders , seats , bullbar , steering wheel , the whole lot !
I have just had a crap load of work done to it over the last month , now i can't believe more drama

[alien]

Hey Sith,
Jack the front up and put on stands(Shake the car and make shore it's secure).
With the wheels on have feel for movment in all directions.
Give them a good push and pull towards the diff centre too.
Look at wheel bearings, tie rod/steering, axle hub to housing bolts, swivel housings ect.

You may need a set of eyes under the beast to look for the movement.
Any mechanicly minded person should be able help to find the fault (Basic road worthy check).

What was undone to do the bearings? That would be my starting point.


It sounds unsafe to me, I don't know if I'd be going far in it till it's fixed.


Cheers, Kyle.

[Brid]

Did you check the panhard rod bushes and bolts. A little wear in either is all it takes to give it the shudders! You also need to make sure you use the right size bolt...exactly. Otherwise (eg metric) and you'll have too much clearance.

Good luck.
Brid

[BigJon]

buggar !

just took it for a quick lap down to my mum's place ...

at 70-80 km per hour she shakes so violently only knocking it out of gear and braking to a stop will stop it shuddering .
Then if i hit a bump it starts all over again ...
I had this happen to the point of having to stop completely 4 times on the way home aand maybe 3 times enroute . I must say there is no vibrations thru the brakes ... so i dunno ... def not like when the wheel bearings went before ...

The whole car shudders , seats , bullbar , steering wheel , the whole lot !
I have just had a crap load of work done to it over the last month , now i can't believe more drama

Classic description of loose swivel preload induced wobble.

Get your swivels setup correctly and marvel at the difference!