101 24v Timing?

[PeterP]

With the shielded leads on the 24v 101, is enough EMF to trigger a standard timing light?

I am OK with static and by ear but always found the manufacturer is usually on the mark.

Peter

[rovercare]

With the shielded leads on the 24v 101, is enough EMF to trigger a standard timing light?

I am OK with static and by ear but always found the manufacturer is usually on the mark.

Peter

No reason not to be enough induction from the leads, as the high tension side will still be similar voltage

Manufactureres specs are a good place to start, but depending on fuel/CR/condition of everything, no reason not to aim for more timing advance

[Blknight.aus]

there shouldnt be enough from the shielded lead, They're shielded.

take one end off of the plug or dizzy, and put in a 6 inch cut off from a normal spark plug lead then measure off of that

[101 Ron]

Hi Peter.
The book describes how to do it with a test light and that is the best way to do it.
Remember the twin points set up is a bit different to run of the mill stuff.
Your motor would be running higher compression than standard and I wouldnt advance it pass the the makers specs as at times it is good to be able to lug the motor at low revs without fear of the motor pinging too much.
Yes shielded leads means just that a timing light most likely will not work.
You can if you want to is just run the motor on a single set of points like a normal distributor.
I have not chased up a conversion of the 24 volt distributor to electronic yet because of time and money............I will do it one day.

[rovercare]

there shouldnt be enough from the shielded lead, They're shielded.

Yea, that was a bit stupid of me, only read the 24V part

[rovercare]

I wouldnt advance it pass the the makers specs as at times it is good to be able to lug the motor at low revs without fear of the motor pinging too much.
.

Advance till detonation occurs, then slightly retard, makers specs are "safe", tha caters for poor fuel etc, so run good fuel, advance the timing and utilise the benefits

[Blknight.aus]

cheat put an adjusting worm into the retainer mech and put the hand screw up on the dash, change the timing on the fly as you need to.

Bit like poping the cover and hand advancing the timing on the old inters.

[PeterP]

Thanks all for the input.

Dave, The mechanical adjuster idea does appeal to me. The other way is an after market computer with the advance and revs mapped. Cannot see an easy way for a mechanical advance to be connected.

Consulted the experts today and the resounding answer for a timing light "it probably won't work" to "it will work no problems". Bought a $50 cheapy and suspect it will not trigger but it is a possibility, if not, I will run with with Blknight's idea of an extended lead.

With the extra compression I will "run it in" on premium fuel (I know, like feeding strawberries to pig) and will start with an extra 2 degrees advance.

Ron, did not mention while CanDo is full 24V (nearly), it has a 12V electronic ignition setup. The ignition power goes to a 24 to 12 convertor (7 amp, 10 amp peak), then to a Fireball XR700 module. I have to assume the slotted disc in the dizzy and infra red trigger came with this unit. Just connected a standard 12v Tacho across the coil terminal and it works fine. Yes that means I have started it, yehaaa!







Cheers,

Peter

[muddy]

Hi Peter

Have you thought of the old type of timing light thats connects in series with the spark plugs (dont know about 24v ) instead of the ct type

Maurice

[101RRS]

Peter,

I would have thought your new engine would run quite well on normal unleaded if timed right - I am sure you would find the numbers with a google search. Also you need to consider whether to keep the "governor" rotor button in your dizzy. I guess there are pros and cons, particularly if you were worried about over-revving the engine.

Also as mentioned you could use an old style timing light but I think the 24v sparkplugs and leads may not be compatible. I have the proper waterproof ends on the leads on the dissy end but normal rubber lead ends and plugs on the engine end so I am not sure.

It is also my understanding that the ignition system (or at least the coil) on a 24v 101 is actually 12v through the dropper. Sorry for sounding a bit vague on ignition issues - the previous owner of my 101 seems to have set it up pretty well and as such it has been a low priority. I have never had the plugs out of it, nor had the dizzy off to check things. As my kms build up it will have to be done as part of a normal tune-up, so while it continues to perform well it will not be touched until either it starts playing up or my next major service.

Garry