No Spark Again!!!!

[Jonno]

Ok, I have a question, I have a Range Rover classic that has stopped, again. I was driving it when it stopped last, (it stopped just like I'd turned the key off). It has a Bosch GT40RT ignition coil (the little red resin filled ones) connected to a standard electronic distributor. After looking we found that the coil lead was broken. We put a new lead on, but no spark. Put another distributor in, no spark. New coil, new relay, check the wiring, new distributor cap, no spark. There is power at the coil, even the tacho still works when it's turning over, there is just no spark at the distributor or the coil. We are at a complete loss, need help, any help, please help!

[langy]

If you go through the various threads related to no ignition and related issues, you'll find that the main culprit is usually the ignition amplifier module (Thing bolted to the side of the dissy). Then the next port of call is using a standard LR coil, and lucas rotor arm. In relation to the 2nd dissy, have you got the wires for the amplifier the right way round.?

The amplifier can just die - it happened to me, now I carry a couple of them spare just in case. Choose carefully where you get your spare from - I got mine mail order (generic) $40 (genuine) $90. Other places sell genuine $190.

If you have a road service friend, they can have a modified cattle prod that hooks into the rotor cap, and it sometimes can resurrect the amplifier, but it's better to get a new one.

[Jonno]

Thanks, and yes wires are on the right way. Is there a means of testing the amp on the distributor?

[PhilipA]

From the Bosch catalogue

GT TYPE: TOP OF THE RANGE SPORTS COIL HIGHER OUTPUT AND LOW CURRENT DRAW -
SUITS POINTS TYPE DISTRIBUTORS

In itself the fact you have a points coil should not harm the amplifier, however it is the wrong coil for the application. You should have an electronic ignition coil which will give better spark by far. But be careful as you have to match the coil to the amplifier . Some use a Bosch 717 but Bosch do not recommend it.
The tacho is driven by a wire from the alternator fields.
Perhaps the coil is stuffed. Do you have the original?

Regards Philip A

[bblaze]

had same problem with my rrc, it turned out to be the earth connection on the bottom of the bell housing
cheers
blaze

[langy]

Roughly, with ignition on you should get almost battery volts at the negative side of the coil, and less than 0.1v between the body of the amp and ground.
You can also try remove/refit amplifier module with new heatsink paste. Generally if it's gone, it's gone.

[roverv8]

What year is your RR classic?
I had an 85 model which i was driving on a bush track at a reasonable pace, all of a sudden it backfired and stopped. No spark at all
Cut a long story short, it was the electronic ignition itself, the littlle metal box the loom plugs into.
Luke

[Pierre]

Agree with Langy - he knows!!!

Pete

[Jonno]

Ok, have just replaces the coil, rotor, cap, modulator (on the side of the distributor). All brand new, all fitted and wired correctly, still no spark!

[roverv8]

What year is your RR classic?
I had an 85 model which i was driving on a bush track at a reasonable pace, all of a sudden it backfired and stopped. No spark at all
Cut a long story short, it was the electronic ignition itself, the littlle metal box the loom plugs into.
Luke

Have you checked your elctronic ignition??
It's usually bolted on the body, what year is your RR
Not the modulator on the dizzy,