Freelander L Series Diesel - Timing Belt

[101RRS]

It is getting close to the time when the timing belt on my L series needs to be changed. I have done it before and it is not something I am looking forward to. Last time I did it I just replaced the belt and did not change anything else.

The workshop manuals do not talk about intervals to change other items such as tensioning pulleys etc.

If anyone has done a L series timing belt before can you let me know what other bits should also be replaced - I would prefer to only do what is required as the bits can work out to be quite expensive. I am just after L series relevant information.

Thanks

Garry

[camel_landy]

Hi Garry,

The only thing I'd say is watch out when you're reconnecting the oil pump... We did mine earlier this year and managed to split the casing. The problem is that you can't get replacements for love nor money as the company which made the casting went bust a couple of years ago!!!

M

[101RRS]

Hi Garry,

The only thing I'd say is watch out when you're reconnecting the oil pump... We did mine earlier this year and managed to split the casing. The problem is that you can't get replacements for love nor money as the company which made the casting went bust a couple of years ago!!!

M

Hi Mark,

You have me a bit confused on that - last time I did my belt I did not touch the oil pump at all and did not have it disconnected.

Cheers

Garry

[marky_cam]

Has me confused as well, I did not touch the pump.
I did get a strange noise some 10 months after changin the belt, when the engine was on overrun, a sort of tinny rattling sound, I took the belt cover off to see little holes in the belt. The guide wheel had bust, putting ball bearing in between the pully's and the belt, the bearings punched through the belt almost destroying it.
I put a new belt, guide and tensioner on this time, I would suggest changing these with the belt for peace of mind. If the belt does bust, it's a new complete new head.

[camel_landy]

Yep, sorry for the confusion... I was doing some other jobs at the same time so let me rephrase that: "Should you disconnect the oil pump..."

FWIW - I had access to a hoist and it was sooo much easier dropping the engine out (hence why we disconnected the pump).

M

[101RRS]

Thanks Mark and Marky-Cam - I do them in situ.

The book says to disconnect the engine from the body and slide it over to the passenger side to give room but I just disconnect the drivers side engine mount and jack that side up to to the top bits and drop the drivers side down to do the bottom end. Saved a lot of mucking around but my piggy fingers still make things a tight squeeze.

Looks like I will do the pulley (or its bearings) and the guide as well.

I will have to do the fuel injection belt, the clutch and an exhaust leak off the turbo as well. I guess that as it is now at 260,000km I will clean out the intercooler and put new rubber pipes on.

Cheers

Garry

[101RRS]

As mentioned I will also be replacing the clutch. Now the standard Freelander clutch is pretty ordinary and doesn't grip all that well - particularly when on steering lock on rough ground.

Does anyone know if there is a heavier clutch kit available and where I would get it?

Thanks

Garry