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Thread: fitting hard top

  1. #1
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    fitting hard top

    righto, i picked up one of these


    to fit onto this


    apart from fitting some new rubber/seals anything thing i need to know or have to source......i do need the correct bolts, anybody know the sizes?

    i do need an upper tailgate

    whats the go with these holes, they are between the door jam and window, it likes they were there from day dot, you can see it in the first post as well

  2. #2
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    Nope - just bung it on with some rubber bits in between.

    The hole would possibly have been for a filler - maybe for an auxilary fuel tank or water tank?

    There should be 4 long bolts in each corner where it bolts to the tub, 2 on each side, 12 across the top of the windscreen (can't remember the thread exactly, but they were 7/16 AF on the head and about 1" long) and thats about it.

    I will find correct sizes for you in a minute, but if you aren't being neurotic about perfection then some bolts from bunnings will serve admirably and easily.

    liftgates should be easy to find. I have a few here but you'd be better off finding some up your way.
    [B][I]Andrew[/I][/B]

    [COLOR="YellowGreen"][U]1958 Series II SWB - "Gus"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="DarkGreen"][U]1965 Series IIA Ambulance 113-896 - "Ambrose"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="#DAA520"][U]1981 Mercedes 300D[/U][/COLOR]
    [U]1995 Defender 110[/U]
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  3. #3
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    thanks shonky

  4. #4
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    Okay - bolt sizes:

    10 across the windscreen (not 12 - my memory failed me)
    1/4" UNF (3/4" Long). Each bolt assembles with 1 plain washer, 1 spring washer and 1 plain nut.

    In each corner is a long stud (so, 4 of them). The manual is a bit hazy on size but it calls for 5/16" UNF nuts, along with an assortment of washers (large, med, small and spring) and a special washer (made of rubber I think)

    Either side of the lift gate is another bolt, and again the manual is hazy on sizes. Listed are two types of bolt; more of the 1/4" UNF as per the windscreen (4 of) and 2x 5/16" UNF (7/8" long). From memory, the 1/4" jobbies go either side of the lift gate, and the 5/16" ones go either side midway between the studs (ie; half way along the tub)

    Shagged if I know what the other two 1/4" ones are for!


    Perhaps someone with more experience at deciphering the LR parts manual will be able to shed more light.
    [B][I]Andrew[/I][/B]

    [COLOR="YellowGreen"][U]1958 Series II SWB - "Gus"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="DarkGreen"][U]1965 Series IIA Ambulance 113-896 - "Ambrose"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="#DAA520"][U]1981 Mercedes 300D[/U][/COLOR]
    [U]1995 Defender 110[/U]
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  5. #5
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    PS - go to the AULRO shop and buy yourself: "SERIESIICD".

    It has every manual you could ever want and more, for $16.

    Certainly cheaper than buying all the manuals in book form (the green bible in particular is about $160)
    [B][I]Andrew[/I][/B]

    [COLOR="YellowGreen"][U]1958 Series II SWB - "Gus"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="DarkGreen"][U]1965 Series IIA Ambulance 113-896 - "Ambrose"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="#DAA520"][U]1981 Mercedes 300D[/U][/COLOR]
    [U]1995 Defender 110[/U]
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  6. #6
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    Rubber seals

    Kelvin,
    If you are not going to replace top and bottom windsreen rubbers it would be a good idea to seal them with something like silastic as this is where water gets in and causes rust in the fire wall etc.

    Hodgo

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by hodgo View Post
    Kelvin,
    If you are not going to replace top and bottom windsreen rubbers it would be a good idea to seal them with something like silastic as this is where water gets in and causes rust in the fire wall etc.

    Hodgo
    didn't think that it would be a good idea to do the bottom windscreen seal/rubber at the same time, probably easier

  8. #8
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    I would replace both windscreen seals - don't use a sealant.

    And follow Shonky's suggestion about the CD - the parts book is good in that it shows the parts and how they go together (although watch that the pictures do not show all changes).

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #9
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    A tropical roof. Always wanted one of those. Lucky you!

  10. #10
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    Weeds - I did the same about a year ago, now I'm thinking about going back. The full length roof is bloody noisy compared to the ute, and if your ute roof has the sliding rear windows it will be cooler than the full length too (and warmer in winter).

    I'm going to experiment with just the roof section (no sides or rear) and see how I like that for the summer. I carry a kayak so the full length roof is best for fitting roof racks.

    The best advice I got was to fit a thick rubber mat into the cargo area floor - that cut a fair amount of the noise (luckily the PO gave me the mat with the roof). Fitting is straight forward but I did find that I needed some foam strips to place along the ute "lip" so it would seal properly - they were more expensive than the roof! From memory I needed 2 of the long bolts that go through the tube and a couple of others that go right next to the tailgate - otherwise all the other bolts were reused from the ute roof.

    Cheers,

    Adam

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