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Thread: Intermittant Defender Ignition

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Smile Intermittant Defender Ignition

    Deefer is 2004 130 DCPU with nigh on 100k. For last 10k the engine will start on the key then cut out as the key released as it will not stay in the 'on' position.

    Sometimes the bugger would do this four to five times before catching and behaving. I whipped the instrument console off and found that the back end of the ignition unit was coming adrift (crimped tabs), and was just able to re-secure it....but the room to manoeuvre was limited. Thus in short order the problem was back with avengence. At one stage (when it was 42 deg in Perth) I had to pull console apart to tie the unit back together with string, as the starter wasn't even engaging. So if you ever go to start your bus and the lights on the console disappear which a random clicking noise, it is probably not the battery terminals, relays, starter motor...but the ruddy ignition switch loosing it back end!!!

    With helpful advice from Jordans in Welshpool, I removed he ignition barrel in toto with help from the dreaded dremel to cut a groove into the sheared off shear bolts and then get a screwdriver into the heads.

    Marking the unit with a permanent pen, I removed the ignition unit via two tiny machine screws and bent the three tabs back into position. Caution here as if you over crimp, the switch can be very stiff to operate.

    I have a basic milling machine so I was able to resurface the shear bolts and put in a decent groove for re-installation, and also tidied up the cast U clamp which copped a little hiding with the dremel.

    So all is grouse with ignition on Deefer. And I was able to find all the lost items deep in the bowels of the dashboard.....a sailors fid anyone!!?


    Aew849
    Le Truck 130 DCPU Tombie2 stage 1 chip, K+N, BFG MT's
    AND an AVAN cruiseliner ...I have joined the whitegoods on wheel brigade!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Douglas Park, NSW
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    The ignition switch & these problems have been around for years.

    Morris/Leyland Marinas & Classic Range Rovers share the same unit.

    In my experience, the first indication is the ignition cutting out on hard cornering.
    Scott

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Camp Hill Queensland
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    For anyone who is replacing the ignition switch on a 300TDI defender. You can drill out the security bolts on the steering lock with a cobalt drill and replace with M8 bolts.

    It may also be able to undo the very small retaining screws holding the switch assembly into the steering lock in situ but I gave up and took the lock out
    '95 110 300TDI, F&R ARB Lockers, Twine Shower, Aux Sill Tank, Snorkel, Cargo barrier, 9 seats, swingaway wheel carrier, MadMan EMS2
    '85 110 Isuzu NA 4BE1 3.6l Diesel, 0.996 LT-95, Rear Maxi (SOLD)
    '76 SIII 109" Nissan ED33 5-SP Nissan GBox (SOLD)

  4. #4
    scott oz Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by aew849 View Post
    .................So if you ever go to start your bus and the lights on the console disappear which a random clicking noise, it is probably not the battery terminals, relays, starter motor...but the ruddy ignition switch loosing it back end!!!

    .................................................. ...............

    (2001 TD5)

    I was going into Birdsville and again going into Innamincka and my dash lights flashed a couple of times and the electrical system went dead.

    Checked the battery terminals and waited a few minutes and off she went. This happened on a number of occasions.

    The auto electric bloke (Birdsville) said it was loose battery wiring. But then it happened again a few times on my way to Innamincka (corrugated road). Hasn't happened since? This was four years ago.

    I know it wasn't the wiring because I checked it and I used ny-locks on all the after market buss bars etc to make sure they didn’t shake loose. And the Auto checked and tightened them in Birdsville.

    So what you're describing could possibly be my problem you think?

    I’ve done a few trips since and the problem hasn’t reoccurred but I never was satisfied the problems was resolved. 800K from Burke to Longreach back road no problems.

    The U bracket holding the ignition is broken which I believe is another common problem so if the ignition is the possible problem I might just fit a push button ignition start?

    What do you think?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Camp Hill Queensland
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    I'm not familiar with post 2000 defenders but have had a couple of ignition switches go intermittent on me from 80's and 90's vintage 110s and Defenders. Yes, you seem to notice them go first on offroad bumps. The latest one for me had the accessories circuit go dodgy before the ignition did but I had another that did the opposite.

    Some people claim a big heavy bunch of keys jingling offroad accelerates the problem but when you take the ignition lock apart and see how they are assembled, I doubt this is the case.

    New switch cost around $70
    '95 110 300TDI, F&R ARB Lockers, Twine Shower, Aux Sill Tank, Snorkel, Cargo barrier, 9 seats, swingaway wheel carrier, MadMan EMS2
    '85 110 Isuzu NA 4BE1 3.6l Diesel, 0.996 LT-95, Rear Maxi (SOLD)
    '76 SIII 109" Nissan ED33 5-SP Nissan GBox (SOLD)

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