<have copied the above post to here in a new thread where 109/110 FC live>
I have been considering the 4 bolt PAS box off a Defender/Disco1/2 or RRc and mounting it backwards on the outside of the chassis rail.
Someone mentioned that the bevel box on an Isuzu Frontera may be what I need. First I need to sort out the direction of rotation of the bevel before I go to the trouble of buying a PAS box.
If the rotation is wrong then a there is the option of a LHD P38a PAS box (this is the preferred option because the P38a box is more reliable than a 4 bolt Disco/Defender box),
I have also been told that some of the Toyota PAS boxes have different rotation but the same outside chassis rail mounting so it may be possible to import an appropriate LHD Toyota box from the US or elsewhere.
The other problem will be the anti-roll bar, but I am hoping for clearance or the second option of moving it slightly to the rear or getting a longer bar that rotates outside the PS box.
I have used a P38 R/H drive PS box mounted on the inside of the chassis rail on my FC with the shaft facing forward towards the angled drive (steering gearbox from a KIA 2700 truck), but I also had to spin the pitman arm 180 Deg so that the wheels turned the same way the steering wheel was turned. I then plumbed the lines into the Isuzu PS pump on the timing cover.
I could take pics tomorrow if anybody is interested.
Cheers
Westy
Last edited by westy; 13th November 2014 at 10:36 PM.
Reason: added extra info
I note you have fitted coils, did you also remove the front cross member? It looks to me as if the P38 box is sitting in the same place as the cross member.
On another note, you have moved the steering column and the bevel appears to be mounted at the front of the upper chassis extension, Won't this place the bevel in front of the front body panel?
Yes the front X-member was removed to be moved back a couple of inches, (it will be re-installed soon) it was too dificult to get crush tubes into the chassis for the P38 box without removing the X-member.
I originally had the column exiting the cab inside the footwell but the location & orientation of the R/R/C box was less than optimum (bloody crap actually).
Yes the steering gearbox protrudes in front of the original body line by >2", I had to do this so that the R/R collapsible steering column would line up correctly with the steering gearbox.
I have had an aluminium firewall spacer made to push the front bodywork forward by 2½" this also allows me to place the L/R dual diaphram booster and Holden M-Cyl under the bonnet line without anything rubbing.
I am currently installing a (back-to-front) R/R front end into the REAR (3rd) axle position so that I can eventually fit rear limited steering to stop rear tyre scrubbing.
Both my rear axles have radius arm location and watts linkage centralisers.
All of this has taken a very L - O - N - G time to finalize with numerous (expensive) visits from my VASS engineer
Last edited by westy; 14th November 2014 at 10:32 AM.
Reason: extra info added
No not that one, sooo much has changed since I took those photos, years ago, hehehe.
Me being me, (a fully qualified senior motor mechanic) after the initial Vass inspection I thought I knew enough to have most things done before having subsequent progress inspections... Vass inspector/ Engineer had other ideas.
The Engineer didn't like the work done on the diff (in your photo) by a well known Victorian specialist dealing in hot rods and Diff/axle mods etc
So to accomodate the ever changing VicRoads regs, I started to revise every idea i'd had to incorporate them all into this version of truck with constant referals to Engineer, he's very happy now.
So, someone else building a 6x6 FC.
In mine I used a RRC 4 bolt on its side. Works very well.
Cant do this on the 2B because the leaf spring mounts are in the way.
Even though they are not used I dont like to cut them off.
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