Steering Relay in Series Forward Controls.

Hi people!

I'm going to get three of the reinforced "Flange Plate for Relay Mounting" (Rover part Number: 217694) made for my the two S2Bs I'm keeping and another for a friend with a V8 S2A (N/C).

Is anyone interested in one also?

The original flange is made of pressed sheet and the hole which is supposed to be a close fit on the bottom of the relay becomes enlarged and oval. This allows the relay to rock side to side and fore and aft leading to play in the steering. The replacements will be made of machined plate, probably 6mm thick and be a direct replacement of the original without any other modification.

Diana

Yes please Diana.
It'll give me good reason then to dismantle and remantle the whole setup!
Neil

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Originally Posted by brookvale

Yes please Diana.
It'll give me good reason then to dismantle and remantle the whole setup!
Neil

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Neil

The good thing about this re-fit is that you only have to remove the lower steering arm off the relay, then the 4 bolts that mount the flange to the chassis.

We haven't decided whether to have longer bolts or a recess into the new flange for the original bolts, we may even use socket headed allen screws as replacements. Discussions with the machinist are (hopefully) happening as we speak.

Will let you know.

Diana

P.S. Is remantling a similar concept to regruntling! ;):D

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Originally Posted by 2BFC

I have just registered onto this site....

...First fitted a defender firewall so the steering wheel is a little higher. Fitted power steering, by using a 90 degree 1:1 gearbox, a
Range Rover P38 power steering box, rotated 180 degrees, the result is like driving a microbus, I wish I had done this years ago as it transforms the vehicle.
Got 3.5 motor with LT95 box.

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G'Day again 2BFC

Just had a better look at the pic of your vehicle - Looks great, you'll have to show us more. I like the idea of the same side profile as the cab, although for my project vehicle I am planning to have a bed across the rear so need to increase the width to probably 6'4" overall to allow a 6'2" bed inside.

Now back to the steering, today I had a look at a box from a P38A. Am I correct in thinking that it usually fits on the outside of the chassis and you have fitted it on the inside of the chassis.

Can I ask:

• Is it in front or behind the cross member where the relay was originally fitted?
• Did you have to cut away any of the upper chassis?
• Does the shaft from the 90 degree bevel drive to the P38A box have to cross between the two chassis rails?
• Does the steering column still go through the floor in the footwell (below the pedals) in the same place?
• Have you still used the original lower arm from the P38A box?

This all sounds very promising to say the least! :) :) And thank you for the idea! :TakeABow:

Diana

Ferreting around under FAB's floor this afternoon sorting out new OD levers/rods.
Found some re-bar which will fit!

Anyways - with **** in air and head through driver's side floor I got a good look at the relay as the steering rods operate.
Yep! the relay rocks in its mount as I turn the wheel.
From box to relay there is no slop or play - the slightest turn of the wheel shows up without play through the steering box itself - so that's OK.

The relay unit first rocks (backwards or forwards) then twists slightly before any movement shows on the drag link/drop arm. That's where my motion is being lost.

Looking forward to hearing news about the MkII Oz-flange!
When (!) it is ready I'll whip out the relay for it's 43 year overhaul...

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Originally Posted by brookvale

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The relay unit first rocks (backwards or forwards) then twists slightly before any movement shows on the drag link/drop arm. That's where my motion is being lost.

Looking forward to hearing news about the MkII Oz-flange!
When (!) it is ready I'll whip out the relay for it's 43 year overhaul...

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At least since it moves it should be possible to get it out - the other thing that goes wrong with steering relays is they tend to become permanent parts of the chassis - I have a farm trailer that started life as a Landrover; and it still has the relay fitted - I gave up trying to get it out after a day.

John

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

At least since it moves it should be possible to get it out - ...

... John

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Your correct there, on my 1951 the relay was so incorporated with crud and rust that the cylinder the relay is housed in pushed out with the relay. :( :(

From a steering perspective I would rather have to service the relay insitu than have the relay moving about all over the place.

You would know the usual trick of getting the relay out. With everything still in the car you jack up the relay and let gravity do the work, many times with a few well placed blows with a suitable device. A bit hard to do with your trailer.

Diana

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Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

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You would know the usual trick of getting the relay out. With everything still in the car you jack up the relay and let gravity do the work, many times with a few well placed blows with a suitable device. A bit hard to do with your trailer.

Diana

Diana

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Tried all that while the engine was still in it to give it some weight.

John