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Hi Keith, I would say they were origionly ment to fit in the geove but because they are so hard to fit they revised the fitment. I got my sassle from Kev this morning but the LEMON " Citroen " is playing up so runing Meryll around today , will finish Landy Monday. Wayne
Like the Ferguson TEA20, the main one to clean, is the filter on the pickup.Quote:
Originally Posted by 123rover50
I agree that the bypass filter will last if the engine oil is changed regularly.
Now for something interesting that I have spotted, if you look at item 'F'.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...ter-01-001.jpg
There is a typo in my spare parts catalogue, Part No 4051- Section I 1948-51, page 18 - item 27 - Distance piece for oil strainer, is shown as Part No 52181.
item 26 - Oil strainer for pump, is shown as Part No 266900.
Section II 1952-53, page 18 - item 15 - Distance piece for oil strainer, is shown as Part No 266900.
item 14 - Oil strainer for pump, is shown as Part No 52182.
.
Well spotted Arthur.
There are possibly a few mistakes if one took the time to peruse the manuals.
Do you need one of those?
While the engine was out I took the time to transfer the timing marks from the flywheel to the balancer.
Saves a lot of effort when one is by oneself. Trying to rotate the engine and spot the marks on the flywheel is difficult.
15 deg, 10 deg and TDC.
The 1600 and 2000 Siamese share the same starter.
When the rubber drive coupling fails the starter has to be removed.
With the 1600 the complete starter and housing has to be removed because the starter will be fouled by the upper boss the oil filter bracket bolts to.
I guess in the old days the boss was removed with a cold chisel. Now we use an angle grinder.
This lets us remove the starter simply by undoing the one big set screw and sliding the starter out leaving the housing bolted to the flywheel housing.
Rover must have taken notice and with the Siamese they left the top boss off the casting so we can remove the starter easily.
When one is removing the housing it is easier to replace the lower bolt with a 3/8 UNC socket headed cap screw. Much more convenient to get to.
Landy's going again sounds good but realy didn't find why it went down on 2 cylinders, now just have to wait for carby overhaul set to come to complete the job & see if i can stop some oil leaks. now i've toped levels up seams to be leaking more . There was a modifycation on the transmission to oil levels so will check that thats been done. Wayne
Hi Keith , Did these modifications to gear box & transfer case oil levels today hope they slow down the oil leaks. :cool: also may have found what was wrong with Landy, she wouldn't start , ttaced it down to a broken wire between kill switch & coil. replaced this wire & started first kick. :D
Also that other split rim i got off you is 1" wider than the 1st two you gave me, must be off a later series 1 or series 2. mite start looking for a couple of std 80" rims for the trailer. Was a bit of a task geting the nuts off the rims , had to use a nut splitter on 5 of them. Wayne
Ahould have attached this photo to the last listing . The inner rim is ok but the outer is 1" wider :cool: Wayne
Thats a bummer. O well someone may be able to use it.
I'll clean it up & clean the threads & give it a coat of green.Quote:
Originally Posted by 123rover50
Winched the 86 into the shed with the capstan on Jumbuck.
Lowered the engine in then pushed it back outside again.